Trees

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Buckeye

We think this is one of the buckeyes. ~15 species of deciduous trees or shrubs native to Southeast Europe, Asia and North America with showy spring flowers and large nut-like fruit. Flower color would help determine which species. They are hardy from Zone 4-7.

Buckeyes are often small trees, with a spread nearly equal to their height. Ohio and yellow buckeyes are some of the larger species in this family, with heights of 50 feet or more. What makes buckeyes especially unique is their early spring flowers, which bloom as early as many woodland wildflowers. As well as greening up early, buckeyes also lose their leaves before most other trees in the fall. The wood of the buckeyes is pale and light, and it is sometimes used for paper, crate, and novelty item production. There are seven species of buckeye native to the United States, mostly found in the eastern half of the country.

The tannins in the plant make the fruit and leaves toxic to people and cattle, however native Americans processed them by boiling. Squirrels are ok with them.

By | 2016-02-16T12:49:10-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Uneven Watering And Fungus

There are two things that are most likely coming into play here. The most common cause of splitting of fruit, be it pears or tomatoes, is uneven watering. We see this when it's been dry for a week or more and then there is a heavy rain. Keeping the plants evenly but not overly watered is the cure. You can also see some fungal action on this fruit - the spots - and the blackening of the cracks. Fungi will commonly move in on cracked fruit. The fact that the foliage looks good (at least what we can see) is a sign that there isn't something more dire going on at root level. (There are root-rot fungi that can cause marred and split fruit, but you'd see yellowing or drooping foliage if this was the problem.) Any of the pears that look this way and go on to ripen might be OK cooked - they are just not that attractive as raw fruit. Next year keep the ground evenly moist - you could spray with one of the organic fungicides for the fungal fruit spot if you'd like.

By | 2016-02-16T03:16:25-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Hazel Alder Smooth Alder

We believe this is the tree Alnus serrulata; Hazel Alder or Smooth Alder. The "Hazel" embedded in the common name is a play on the very similar looks of the leaf shape and presence of catkins, as Hazelnut ( Corylus avellana, Corylus colurna) have, BUT the Hazelnuts have a very odd, small female flower in very early spring, ( tiny strap-shaped petals recurved backwards, really tiny) then maturing seed is "nested" like a small quail egg in the center of what looks like parrot tulip petals, very beautiful.

The solid, green seed pod of Alnus and, the catkin (old and passed but still remnant) and the leaf shape are the key i.d. components. The Alders are in general overlooked as ornamentals, but several species tolerate poor drainage/swampy soils, and are small in mature stature; both valuable attributes in certain landscape situations.

We are not certain of this identification, because the image is a bit blurry. If you get a chance, we'd like to see a close up of the fruit/nut. Thanks.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:24-07:00 February 13th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Things Going On

There are a couple of things going on here, not necessarily related. 1. The bumps are galls. These are caused by insects or mites that lay eggs in the leaf and then the leaf-tissues grow around the developing critter, altering the cellular growth of the leaf to protect what's growing inside. Although this looks creepy, it's seldom harmful to a tree. Read more about galls here: http://bit.ly/1pJ4ZPe 2. There is also some leaf spot on this foliage, most likely caused by a fungus. Again, this is a cosmetic issue and seldom harmful for the tree. Read more about leaf spot fungi here: http://bit.ly/1oRng0w 3. Finally, it appears that you might have a nutritional problem with this birch, most likely an iron deficiency either because your soil lacks iron or because the soil is alkaline so the tree can't uptake the iron that is there in the soil. You might want to have a pH test done of the soil around this tree before doing anything like adding iron...if the pH is off no amount of iron will help. You can read more about this issue by going here:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant/deciduous/birch/leavesyellow.html

By | 2016-01-22T05:58:44-08:00 January 22nd, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Japanese Maple

This is a Japanese Maple. There are hundreds of varieties and too many to specifically identify (even many red ones). Japanese maples prefer; dappled or afternoon shade especially when young, protection from strong wind, well-drained, consistently moist soil (neither excessively wet nor dry), protection from late spring frosts especially when young. They do better in acidic soils and do not do as well in alkaline soils. Japanese Maple are greedy feeders, especially when young. Before planting, work as much compost as you like into the soil around the tree, and keep adding it during spring and early summer. Composted matter not only adds valuable nutrients to the soil, it tends to retain moisture, which Japanese Maple love. These trees are quite drought-tolerant when mature, but like most young trees, they need regular deep waterings during the first few years. Plan to water heavily twice a week during normal weather and three or even four times weekly in periods of drought. Whether your tree is young or mature, it will grow best in soil kept consistently moist by regular watering and mulching. A 3-inch layer of shredded bark around the entire root zone of the tree (but not touching the trunk) works well in all seasons.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:26-07:00 January 21st, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Rd Response

Bobbie,we are trying again and trying a different method of response. It appears that the lengthy answers that I am writing to many of our inquirers is not getting through to them when we use the space called additional comments. You and now another are find blank boxes there or not even the box. You just happen to be the one that is getting the biggest impact with this. Several things attack crape myrtles aphid, scale insects and weevils. Then you have the possibility of diseases that weaken a tree then the pests come when it is weakened. This does not look like any of the pests. Our biggest concern is the fact that it is spreading to other trees. We recommend that you contact your local cooperative extension agent. Either that person or one of the tree specialists at VA Tech, our state land grant university can be of much greater help than we can at this point. We are also not certified pesticide applicators so we cannot recommend products or know the best way to treat this. Please contact them as soon as possible. Thank you and I apologize again for the problem that you are experiencing with the app.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:26-07:00 January 21st, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Premna

Do the petioles (stems) of the leaves have "wings" or are they completely round?

That would be the dead give away. P. microphylla has winged petioles and P. serratifolia (P. obtusa isn't generally accepted any longer) does not. See below:

P. microphylla: Leaves sessile or short petiolate with a winged petiole; leaf blade ovate-lanceolate, elliptic, ovate, or obovate, 3-13 X 1.5-6 cm, subglabrous to pubescent, base narrowly cuneate, margin entire or lobed to sometimes serrulate, apex long acuminate to acute.


P. serratifolia (syn. obtusa, Premna obtusifolia R. Br.

Prodr. Fl. Nov. Holl. 1: 512 (1810). äóîBentham, Fl. Austr. 5: 58 (1870). äóîFosberg in Taxon 2: 88äóñ89 (1953). äóîFosberg & Renvoize, Fl. Aldabra: 224, fig. 35, 6 (1980). äóîH. Moldenke & A. Moldenke in Rev. Fl. Ceylon 4: 334 (1983). äóîR. Fernandes in Bol. Soc. Brot., sí©r. 2, 63: 299 (1990). Types from Australia.):
Petiole 0.3-5 cm, puberulent; leaf blade oblong to broadly ovate, 3-15 X 2.5-9.5 cm, papery, subglabrous or pubescent only along veins, base broadly cuneate, rounded, or truncate, margin entire, slightly undulate, or crenate, apex acute to rarely acuminate or obtuse.

By | 2016-01-19T09:33:03-08:00 January 19th, 2016|Trees|1 Comment
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Japanese Maple

This is a Japanese Maple. There are hundreds of varieties and too many to specifically identify. Japanese maples prefer; dappled or afternoon shade especially when young, protection from strong wind, well-drained, consistently moist soil (neither excessively wet nor dry), protection from late spring frosts especially when young. They do better in acidic soils and do not do as well in alkaline soils. Japanese Maple are greedy feeders, especially when young. Before planting, work as much compost as you like into the soil around the tree, and keep adding it during spring and early summer. Composted matter not only adds valuable nutrients to the soil, it tends to retain moisture, which Japanese Maple love. These trees are quite drought-tolerant when mature, but like most young trees, they need regular deep waterings during the first few years. Plan to water heavily twice a week during normal weather and three or even four times weekly in periods of drought. Whether your tree is young or mature, it will grow best in soil kept consistently moist by regular watering and mulching. A 3-inch layer of shredded bark around the entire root zone of the tree (but not touching the trunk) works well in all seasons.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:26-07:00 January 19th, 2016|Trees|1 Comment
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Bonsai Problem

Difficult to tell for sure, but it could be the result of being indoors, or if recently transplanted, suffering from transplant shock, or allowed to dry out. We also notice it is a pot within a pot and might be sitting in water leading to root rot. Bonsai specimen are outdoor plants and cannot tolerate the low light conditions indoors for very long. Even with bright indoor light, it is not the same as being out doors. Most bonsai are grown in lath houses. Fertilize with a slow release food recommended for bonsai plants and find a nice outdoor area with filtered light and then be ready to water---they dry out so fast, but make sure the water is allowed to drain out before putting it back in another pot or saucer with no drainage holes. For more information and confirmation of the problem, consult a bonsai society in your area such as : the previous resource given, the pakistanbonsaisociety.org or local garden centre that specializes in bonsai.We are concerned that the problem of defoliation has happened so suddenlyt and this could also indicate a disease, but very difficult to ascertain from a photograph. It would be best if the problem could be confirmed in hand.

By | 2016-01-16T10:56:24-08:00 January 16th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Leaf Scorch On Japanese Maples

There are a couple possible reasons that can cause these symptoms and sometimes such damage can be caused by a combination of these.
1) Some maples do not tolerate sudden heat. The most sensitive to scorch are the cut-leaf Japanese maples. The trees just prefer cooler temps and more humidity. Wind makes it worse.
2) Fertilizer burn. If a plant is fertilized by too-strong synthetic fertilizer, it can cause scorched edges. Sometimes the fertilizer is from an application to a nearby lawn.
3) Drift of water on leaves frequently. If foliage is hit with water daily, or every other day, especially at night or very early in the morning so that the leaves are wet at the coolest part of the day, it can cause fungal issues that resemble or add to leaf scorch. Note that if a sprinkler system is going off for fifteen or twenty minutes either daily or every other day that is not nearly enough to adaquately water a tree. Water deeply less often to be sure that more than the surface of the soil is being watered. Many times irrigation systems are set up to irritate, not irrigate plants!

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:27-07:00 January 15th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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