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Plumeria Problem

Please accept our apologies for the delay in responding! Plumerias (also known as Frangipani,) need well-draining soil, full or partial sun and regular water. Make sure drainage occurs from the bottom of the pot with each watering. Fertilize with an acid food such as cottonseed meal. From what we can see in this photo, there are a couple of possible causes of leaf death, including lack of sunlight (or possibly too much reflected light and heat from the wall behind the plant - its hard to know what the exposure is thru-out the day from a photo), improper soil moisture (watering), and/or spider mite damage. We recommend you move the plant into full sun but away from any walls or fences that can reflect/increase light intensity and heat, and use a magnifying lens to look for spider mites on both the upper and lower surface of the leaves. We've included a link about spider mites and another about Plumeria from the Plumeria Society:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/spidermitescard.html
http://www.plumeria.org/Tech_Info/Tech_info.htm

By | 2016-03-03T14:56:57-08:00 March 3rd, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Cutleaf Staghorn Sumac Tiger Eyes

This is Staghorn Sumac 'Tiger Eyes'. It is a dwarf, golden-leaved, staghorn sumac cultivar that typically matures to only 6’ tall and as wide. Deeply dissected, pinnate compound leaves (to 1-2’ long) emerge chartreuse in spring, but quickly mature to bright yellow. Foliage may acquire some striking orange and scarlet tones in fall. Tiny insignificant greenish-yellow flowers bloom in terminal cone-shaped panicles in early summer, followed on female plants by reddish fall fruiting clusters. Easily grown in average, dry to medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. Tolerant of a wide range of soils except for soils that are poorly drained. Generally tolerant of urban conditions. WARNING - this plant is suckering and invasive via root invasion into surrounding garden areas. 'Tiger Eyes' is actually known to sucker less than traditional Staghorn Sumac, yet buyer be warned - it still suckers and will be a challenge to keep out of surrounding gardens.

By | 2016-03-03T13:31:51-08:00 March 3rd, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Leaf Spot

"Leaf spot" is a common descriptive term applied to a number of diseases affecting the foliage of ornamental shrubs and trees. The majority of leaf spots are caused by fungi, but some are caused by bacteria. Leaf spots on trees are very common and generally do not require spraying. Leaf spot may result in some defoliation of a plant. An established plant can tolerate almost complete defoliation if it happens late in the season or not every year. Small or newly planted trees that become defoliated are more at risk of suffering damage until they become established. Here is a link that might be helpful:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/englishlaurel.html
You might want to consider pruning out and properly disposing of affected plant parts to give the plant a fresh start. You might want to consider treating with a fungicide as the new growth appears. Or you may want to consider replacing the plant.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:22-07:00 March 2nd, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Alder Buckthorn Glossy Buckthorn

Alder Buckthorn was sold regularly at nurseries as a garden shrub and hedge. This shrub or small tree reaches heights up to 20 feet. However, it has limited decorative qualities without conspicuous flowers or bold foliage. While it was brought over from Europe with good intentions about 200 years ago, this shrub is enormously invasive. All exotic buckthorns produce a fruit that is eaten by birds and other animals. However, the severe laxative effect of these fruits forces fast distribution of the seeds. These shrubs also aggressively resprout from cut or damaged stems. This shrub is invading Midwestern and Northeastern forests and devastating the native plants and shrubs because of the berry / bird association. Environmentally speaking, it would be proactive to remove these shrubs and replace them with something that might better attract pollinators or wildlife without leaving a devastating invasion.

By | 2016-03-02T01:37:26-08:00 March 2nd, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Azalea Another One

Thanks for sending this long shot; we can now see it's a Rhododendron. The odd thing is that it's right next to another Rhododendron which looks healthy. If not for that, we'd suspect winter burn because broadleaf evergreens are very susceptible to wind burn in winter. Winds wick moisture out of the foliage, but because the ground is frozen, the plant can't absorb more moisture from the soil to replace what it has lost. This often occurs in Jan-Feb. The damage will not heal, so your best bet is to prune off the damaged foliage and stems and wait for new growth. In the future, you could spray with an antidessicant like Wiltpruf in winter. This slows the evaporation of water from the foliage and can help prevent winter wind burn. However, since you have one healthy Rhodie next to one ailing Rhodie, we suggest you show this photo to a local garden center or coop extension agent. You may need to have someone come examine the soil or your shrub's root system. Good luck!

By | 2016-02-29T23:55:30-08:00 February 29th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Hydrangea Problem

Hydrangeas do best in partial shade (and may burn if receiving high heat or light intensity, and/or having heat and excess light reflected off a wall or fence) in your area, and they require regular water, but with good draining soil. Ground soils in your area tend to be high in clay content which holds lots of water but does not drain well. If you did not amend the soil well by mixing in organic matter, or the hole around the root zone is hard-packed, plants may begin to wilt in response to too much water. We recommend you dig up a handful of soil to check for moisture, or use a moisture meter (can be purchased at your local garden center). Also make sure that mulch is not in contact with the plant stem; mulch should be kept 3-4 inches away from the stem of the plant to avoid stem/crown rot issues. These plants also perform better in acidic soil conditions, which are not likely in your area. We recommend you fertilize with an acid fertilizer when the plants recover from the current condition(s).

By | 2016-02-28T19:56:22-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Winter Damage On Holly

This is classic winter damage. It usually happens as a combination of cold temperatures, wind and sun reflected off of the snow. The plant might recover, so wait at least a month to see what happens. The holly will drop all the burned leaves (you can already see that it's doing this) and there may be some die-back on the top branches. Wait until mid-May to do any pruning. At that point you'll see new growth from the stems that are still alive. Prune off any stems that are still brown in mid-May.

It would be a good idea to remove the lawn in a circle around this plant, and apply a layer of composted manure and a light application of an organic fertilizer. This will also make it easier to mow the grass around this holly. An inch of mulch over that compost will help keep the water in over the summer while the holly recovers. Next fall, in October, spray the plants with an anti-dessicant product to help protect the leaves.

By | 2016-02-27T22:38:25-08:00 February 27th, 2016|Shrubs|17 Comments
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Scale Insects On Camellia

Scale insects form raised bumps on leaves and stems as they stick their beaks in to suck the life out of plants. They are not uncommon on camellia, nor are aphids, mealybugs, and mites; they often coexist on stressed plants. As they feed, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. There can be webs and sticky exudate that soon grows black sooty mold. Start gaining control by spraying the plants thoroughly, if temperatures permit, spray with a horticultural oil spray. These oils are highly refined and will not burn if used as directed on the label and should be used each winter on camellias. In hot weather, use a non-oil control product made for piercing and sucking insects. Spray the trunks and upper and lower leaf surfaces. This looks like a serious infestation so do consider also using a systemic insecticide to continue control this year. Keep fallen leaves raked up; water and fertilize as usual. The plants are tough; with your help, they'll shake off the insect issues.

By | 2016-02-27T19:33:22-08:00 February 27th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Scale Insects On Camellia

Scale insects form raised bumps on leaves and stems as they stick their beaks in to suck the life out of plants. They are not uncommon on camellia, nor are aphids, mealybugs, and mites; they often coexist on stressed plants. As they feed, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. There can be webs and sticky exudate that soon grows black sooty mold. Start gaining control by spraying the plants thoroughly. If temperatures permit, spray with a horticultural oil spray. These oils are highly refined and will not burn if used as directed on the label. In hot weather, use a non-oil control product made for piercing and sucking insects. Spray the trunks and upper and lower leaf surfaces. This looks like a serious infestation so do consider also using a systemic insecticide to continue control this year. Keep fallen leaves raked up; water and fertilize as usual. The plants are tough; with your help, they'll shake it off and regrow at least a bit this season. .

By | 2016-02-27T16:23:11-08:00 February 27th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Root Beer Plant Hoja Santa Mexican Pepperleaf

It is native to the Americas, from northern South America to Mexico. It does well in part sun and shaded areas, but on the coast can handle more direct sun. It is very hardy. It is related to the tropical and important food crop "Kava." Warning - We do not advise ingesting or using medicinally any plant we identify. It is often used in Mexican cuisine for tamales, the fish or meat wrapped in fragrant leaves for cooking, and as an essential ingredient in mole verde, the green sauce originated in the Oaxaca region of Mexico. It is also chopped to flavor soups, such as pozole, and eggs. In Central Mexico, it is used to flavor chocolate drinks. In southeastern Mexico, a green liquor called Verdín is made from hoja santa. It is also used for tea. American cheesemaker Paula Lambert created "Hoja santa cheese", goat cheese wrapped with the hoja santa leaves and impregnated with its flavor. While typically used fresh, it is also used in dried form, although drying removes much of the flavor and makes the leaf too brittle to be used as a wrapper.

By | 2016-02-27T10:45:43-08:00 February 27th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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