Shrubs

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Rose

This is a rose bush. There are so many different varieties that it's impossible to tell you which one you have, but the care for all roses is pretty much the same. 1. Roses like well-enriched soil so spreading a bag of compost or composted cow manure on the top of the soil every year is a good thing to do. Spread it so that it's an inch deep and top with another inch layer of bark mulch if desired. 2. Use an organic fertilizer made for roses in the early spring and again at the end of June. You don't have to dig it in - just spread it on the surface around the plant before you spread the compost, and on top of the mulch/compost later in the summer. 3. In April, the plant will put out red-colored shoots. This will tell you what's alive and what's dead - cut off any dead stems or tips of stems that don't have such red shoots on them. After that, remove any crossed branches or any branches that are growing into the center of the plant instead of away from the center. This promotes a nice, vase-like form. 4. Water roses deeply once a week, watering in the morning so that the plant doesn't stay wet overnight.

By | 2016-01-02T14:11:30-08:00 January 2nd, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Rhododendron Leaf Curl

Leaf curl on Rhododendrons is most frequently seen when the plants are under stress from drought, stem injury or cold temperatures. Sometimes one or more of these are contributing factors because if the rhodys went into the winter season dry from summer drought they are then more likely to be further stressed by cold winters. If heavy snows break branches, so that they can no longer take water up to the leaves, this too causes foliage to curl and die.

What's to be done now? In the spring we all play a waiting game. If the leaves of your plants haven't recovered in the next week or two they are unlikely to do so. You can take one of two actions: 1. Clip off the wilted foliage just above the last two leaves. This will prompt new growth from the area where you've left two leaves. 2. Wait and see how the plant recovers in late-May. Some Rhododendrons drop those curled and soon to be dead leaves but will put out new foliage from those stems in late May. Other plants will continue to die back and you'll see in early June that these branches are indeed dead, at which point you can cut them off.

Fertilizer won't fix the problem so don't go there. But a light application (an inch thick) of composted manure around the base of the plants is never a bad idea, so by all means put this down and then wait and see what happens.

By | 2016-01-02T00:28:29-08:00 January 2nd, 2016|Shrubs|1 Comment
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Scale

This is a serious infestation! From the photo, it is hard to tell the disease. Golden euonymus (Euonymus japonicusäóÖ Aureomarginatusäó»), the plant affected, is prone to both scale and mildew on a grand scale. If the spots on the leaves rub off, then it is probably scale. Use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to touch each one. Follow up with a weekly spray of Insecticidal Soap for 3 weeks to break up the life cycles of these piercing and sucking insects. Since so many of your Euonymus leaves were affected, you might be better off removing this shrub and starting over.

Scale insects are mostly immobile, so once removed, it is not likely to move to the other plants. They suck the nutrients out of the leaves and branches, and if untreated, can seriously damage a plant. Many insecticides cannot penetrate the insect's shell, so you'll need something specially formulated for scale. We suggest you take a few leaves into a local nursery and explain your problem. They can recommend a horticultural oil or systemic poison formulated for ornamentals. Good luck!

By | 2016-01-01T17:06:17-08:00 January 1st, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Sun Rose Rock Rose

110 species of Rock Rose Family plants are native to the Old World, North America and South America - but most cultivated plants are forms of garden origin.you may know it as sun rose.

Helianthemums are noteworthy for the masses of colorful, 1-inch, saucer-shaped flowers that appear in early summer and last well into autumn. As sun roses have become more popular, the range of available colors has expanded. There are now soft yellows, a variety of pinks, oranges, reds and apricots.

While the flowers are the main attraction, I find the range of foliage almost as compelling. Some varieties have soft, grayish leaves, others a light green while some even have crinkled bright green foliage.

These opposite, oblong or linear evergreen leaves, to an inch and a half long, cover stems that will spread to 3 feet. Because of its ground-hugging nature, sun rose makes an excellent low ground cover for a sunny location.

Helianthemums are workhorses. Once established, these Mediterranean natives are very drought tolerant and quite tenacious, without being invasive.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:29-07:00 January 1st, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Croton

Known for their bold, tropical foliage, crotons are perennial evergreen shrubs. Not only can these plants be grown outdoors in warmer parts of Florida, but some cultivars can be raised as decorative houseplants as well. The beautiful leaves of the croton are also used to enhance floral arrangements. Grown for their beautiful leaves; crotons (Codiaeum variegatum) come in a wide variety of leaf shapes and colors which include reds, oranges, yellows, pinks, purple, greens, and white. Native to India and Malaysia, this tropical plant usually quite full and the leaves form clusters to create maximum color patterns. This shrub can grow up to 10 feet tall, but there are both dwarf and larger varieties. Many crotons grow best in full sun, but many cultivars can tolerate, and even prefer, light shade partial shade. Crotons are best grown subtropical South and Central Florida. Frosts or freezes will damage them, but they quickly recover. When used outdoors this plant looks most attractive when grown in groups. Use them to accent green shrubbery and add a splash of color to any yard or container.

By | 2016-01-01T00:59:04-08:00 January 1st, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Willowleaf Cotoneaster

We can't quite see the leaves of this, as closely as we'd like, but based on the graceful shape of the branches, we believe it may be willowleaf cotoneaster, particularly the large leaf form.

Great drought tolerance and pretty red fruits that accentuate the glossy leaves well into winter make willowleaf cotoneaster a plant deserving more use as a groundcover or tall screen. A native of the Himalayas and western China, this typically evergreen plant has a spreading form with long, gently arching branches. In spring fragrant white flowers are borne in clusters that will develop into small, showy red berries. When cooler temperatures arrive in autumn, the green leaves change to an attractive reddish-purple and contrast the red berries that persist well into winter. Unusually cold winters or lack of a protective snowcover may cause partial leaf drop. Note that there is variation in mature plant height. The natural form of this species is tall and rounded, while many cultivars are significantly shorter and better utilized as smaller shrubs and groundcovers. Many cultivars exist to meet many needs of the gardener. 'Scarlet Leader' and 'Repens' are often available and are taller and very broad varieties, while 'Gnom' is a very short form and 'Emerald Carpet' has a much denser appearance.

By | 2015-12-31T22:12:40-08:00 December 31st, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Hebe Emerald Gem

Hebe 'Emerald Gem' caught the eye of GPP judges over the course of a three-year hebe evaluation at North Willamette Research and Extension Center, Oregon. It stood out because of its rounded, compact habit and its striking foliage. Individual leaves are bright green with a yellowish cast, they are small and scale-like and pressed against the twigs of this shrub, creating a look much like a conifer. 'Emerald Gem's mounding form and clean, tidy habit make it a good choice for a rock gardens or an interesting specimen plant. Mix it with smaller plants because it dislikes competition. In youth Hebe 'Emerald Gem' has a formal look , but it will soften in a few years to a mounding slightly loose shrub whose delicate stems blow and drift in the breeze. It combines well with Mediterranean plants and dwarf conifers. It rarely flowers, but when it does, the blooms look like small white puffs scattered on the tips of its branches.
Plant this cold hardy hebe in well-drained or sandy soil with full sun. Once established it needs only occasional watering during dry weather. It requires little pruning to maintain its compact shape. Hebes are not long lived plants but should remain attractive in the garden for ten to fifteen years. Replace older plants once they begin to deteriorate.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:29-07:00 December 30th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Winter Damage On Camellia

This is winter damage, which often makes small leaf imperfections and leaf spots from the previous summer more noticeable. Winter damage is caused by cold winds and/or sunburn from the sun reflecting off of the snow. The plants that most frequently show winter damage are the broadleaf evergreens such as Rhododendrons, Holly, Camellias etc.

Because these plants have leaves that are scorched, the areas on the foliage that had some leaf spot damage from last summer are more evident. You'll see dark spots, or white spots where the leaf tissue actually died last summer or fall and now is turning tan or white.

At this point there isn't anything that you need to do - the plant will drop this scorched foliage this spring and will put on new growth. To help prevent leaf spot in the spring and summer, make sure that the plants aren't getting hit with water from a sprinkler on a frequent basis, as this is a prescription for leaf-spot fungi. To help protect broadleaf evergreens in advance of winter you can use an anti-dessicant product in October, although in a really cold or snowy winter plants will still show some winter damage.

By | 2015-12-29T15:50:07-08:00 December 29th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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European Red Elder


This choice specimen has a graceful habit with finely divided golden foliage that emerges as bronze. It is less susceptible to sun scorch than the other gold varieties. It bears creamy white flowers that mature into red fruits.
Noteworthy Characteristics: Sambucus is suitable for mixed or shrub borders or for naturalizing in wild areas; cultivars with colored foliage such as this one are effective as specimens. The fruits of this genus have culinary attributes when cooked, but can cause illness if eaten raw, or if the poisonous seeds are consumed.
Care: Grow in moderately fertile, moist but well-drained soil, preferably with morning full sun and afternoon shade. Sambucus may be pruned minimally to maintain a healthy framework, but it benefits from hard pruning to restict its size. Cultivars like this one that are grown for their foliage may be cut back annually to within 2 or 3 buds from a permanent framework.
Propagation: Sow seed in a cold frame in the fall; take softwood cuttings in early summer and hardwood cuttings in winter.
Problems: Powdery mildew, canker, dieback, rust, fungal leaf spots, borers, virus diseases.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:30-07:00 December 29th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Water And Fertilizer Issues

Sorry for the dealy in responding! Blueberry plants in CA can be tough to grow because they grow best (get the appropriate nutrients and amounts) in a very low (acidic) soil pH around 4.5. CA soils are typically much more basic (alkaline) at about 8.0 - 8.5. We recommend using an acidifying fertilizer. Check with your local garden center or agricultural supply store (which may be the better option for this) for an appropriate fertilizer. You can also get an inexpensive soil pH tester from the same supplier. Keep in mind, we typically see browning of leave edges (margins) in response to under-watering, and/or nutrient excess. Water should be applied when needed (according to weather conditions and plant size) rather than on a fixed schedule. When applied, water deeply (fewer times per week as opposed to daily) and maintain even soil moisture (avoid fluctuations in very dry and very wet/flooding of soil). Insufficient water dries out roots, and too much water drowns roots; both situations result in a lack of nutrient uptake. Also, not applying enough water along with fertilizer applications causes the mineral salts to build-up in the soil around the roots and cause "leaf tip" or "leaf margin" burning.

By | 2015-12-28T16:46:36-08:00 December 28th, 2015|Shrubs|0 Comments
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