Plant Pests

/Plant Pests

Grasses As Weeds

Sorry to say we can't accurately ID the 'bunch grass' from this photo so its difficult to say what the best product would be, but we can say its also pretty difficult to find a product that will kill the weedy grass and not the lawn (turfgrass). We recommend you dig up a "bunch" and take it to your local garden center for accurate ID and find out if they can recommend a product. If there's not a product, we recommend you dig these weedy grasses out of the lawn (make sure to get all of it, and as much of the root systems as possible - this is easiest to do when the soil is moist) and re-seed with the same grass spieces as your turfgrass. If you decide to go this route, you'll need to be diligent with keeping the soil and new seedling grass moist until its well established. Also, you'll want to be prepared to re-seed immediately after taking out the weedy grass so that you don't leave bare spots for other weed seeds to grow in. Alternately, if you have a creeping turfgrass, like bermuda or something, you can encourage it to fill in the bare spots left after removing the weeds by keeping the soil/grass moist and fertilizing AND pulling any other weeds (right away) that pop up while its trying to fill in.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:27-07:00 January 16th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Parasitized Aphids

Yes, you're son is correct. These are Aphids, but the good news is, many of them (the black and the tan ones) appear to have been parasitized - which means they are dieing due to a tiny (stingless) parasitic wasp that is developing inside each of them. This is nature at its most interesting and amazing! You do not need to do anything, except allow the incubating wasps to develop so they can emerge from the aphid "mummies" and lay their eggs in more aphids. However, we also see ants in this photo and they should definately be controlled because they will try to keep the parasitic wasps away. They do this because they feed on the aphid excrement (its very sugary) and are trying to preserve their food source. Ants are best controlled with baits. We've included links with more info and strongly advise that you do not use pesticidal sprays to control ants, especially those you find on your plants. These pesticidal sprays will kill the natural enemies of Aphids (which are numerous and include the parasitic wasps) and could do damage to your plants.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/invertebrates/links.ants.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74140.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/NE/index.html

By | 2016-01-16T01:38:18-08:00 January 16th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Large Milkweed Bug Larvae

Scientific name: Oncopeltus fasciatus. These nymphs (non-adults) should do no harm to your plant which is a Stapelia, and is in the Milkweed family. The adults that they will eventually metamorphose into however may start sucking the juices from your plant. This would be the time to eradicate them. Your Stapelia is a succulent, and most succulents are sensitive to various insecticides. I would recommend trying to just physically remove and dispose of them. I have no idea how fast the larvae move but you might be able to take a length of duct tape and curl it around with the sticky side out like you would use to remove pet hair or lint from clothing and just stick it to the bugs, throw the tape away! A blast from a garden hose might work too but I don't know how hard they can hang on or if they can find their way home either. If the tape or water doesn't work, try your local cooperative extension for help at http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/problems/insects.html The information on these critters is fascinating and you can read all about them at: http://bugguide.net/node/view/504

By | 2016-01-15T23:36:32-08:00 January 15th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Scale Insects

We can't see clearly enought to be definitive, but this appears to be sap sucking scale insects. This plant pest does not usually cause major problems to plant health unless their population is very large. However, if you don't control them, and the conditions are right for their reproduction, they can get out of control. Keep your plant healthy and it will be better able to withstand the feeding these pests do. Control for scales varies by species or type of scale. We've included web links for your reference in controlling these pests. You can also give the plant(s) a shower, literally, to clean off the pests, and any sticky "honeydew" exudate (sucking insect excrement), and the black sooty mold that grows in this honeydew. Keep an eye out and continue to remove new developing pests. Otherwise, if the population numbers are high you can use pesticidal products, but they may not be very effective on the adult (covered) stage of the scale (they will work on the younger crawler stage if applied correctly). We recommend you use horticultural oils or pesticidal soaps whenever possible. Make sure you apply these products early in the morning (not in the hot part of the day) and the plant should be in moist soil or watered before applying the oil to avoid burning the plant tissues.
For outdoor plants: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/scalescard.html

By | 2016-01-15T04:42:48-08:00 January 15th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Pests Of Hibiscus

This is either an insect called Mealybug, or the molted skins of another insect called Aphids. If the plant is grown indoors, its probably Mealybug as we don't usually see Aphids in-doors. Outdoors, it could be either one of these (or sometimes both). The Aphids molt thru several stages of growth, shedding the old skin and leaving it behind on the leaves, so they may still be present. Look for them on the underside of the leaves and on the newest growth and flower buds. Mealybug are small cottony-looking things that don't really look like insects to the naked eye. In any case, both of these insects are sap suckers, feeding on the leaves and excreting the sugar that is removed from the plant cells and tissues. It looks like some of these leaves may have the sticky excrement (called honeydew) on them (are they tacky/sticky to the touch?) We've included a link with information about these insects and how to control them. For starters, if the plant is not too large, you can wash the insects and the honeydew off with dish soap and water. You may have to do this more than once until you've gotten rid of them. Outdoors, you can also wash them off with a high pressure spray of water, or use a horticultural oil (just be careful the plant is watered and its not hot outside). Here's the link:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/invertebrates/menu.aphidsthrips.html

By | 2016-01-14T11:41:21-08:00 January 14th, 2016|Plant Pests|2 Comments
Read More

Mites

Without a picture I suspect Diaprepes root weevil or little leaf notcher. Fortunately the weevils are said to prefer to feed on weed (grass) roots, so they don't damage the tree roots. The best solution (if you can do it) is to get rid of any grass, which not only takes away the food source of the grubs but also frees up nutrient resources that would have been consumed by the grass. You can lay down heavy layers of (free) mulch which then attracts beneficial creatures (worms, millipedes, etc) and adds to the quality of the soil. I wouldn't worry too much though, damage is mostly cosmetic. On the other hand, however, you also have a serious spider mite infestation. Spider mites commonly infest mangoes in Florida. Feeding and is first confined to the upper leaf surface, along the midrib, and then along secondary veins. The areas along the veins become reddish-brown. Infested leaves often abscise prematurely. Horticultural oils and neem oil work by smothering immobile insects such as scales, aphids, and mites and are applied fall, winter and spring. Do not apply when daytime temperatures reach 85 degrees.

By | 2016-01-14T02:54:02-08:00 January 14th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Petunia Flowers Eaten

We have several thoughts to share with you about this flower petal damage. First, how many flowers are getting eaten and how badly? If it is only a few flowers that are being bothered, you may wish to pick them off and do nothing more. Two, since you've mentioned using a spray, how do you know you used the right one? If you spray before you know what is causing the damage, you may be spraying something that doesn't work on the pest that is causing the problem. Three, now that the lecture is over, here as some ideas for what to look for. Slugs: look for evidence of slime trails to confirm. Visit the plant at night with a flashlight, and if you see them, pick them off (wear gloves if it grosses you out) and dispose of them. Earwigs may be the culprit and they can also be seen feeding at night. Pick them off as well. In addition, try dusting with diatomaceous earth. If you don't see slugs or earwigs, look for something that looks like black pepper, which would be the frass (poop) of some sort of catepillar or worm. In that case, apply Bt according to package directions.

By | 2016-01-13T23:18:06-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Tomato Fruit Pests

Hard to say what pest did this for sure, but might be Tomato Fruitworm. You might want to contact your local agricultural extension agent with this photo and samples of the leaves and bugs, to determine exactly what you are dealing with.
The evidence of tomato fruitworm is usually a visible black hole at the base of the fruit stem. When the tomato is cut, tunneling is evident and the cavity may contain frass and decay as well as the worm/caterpillar itself. The color of the caterpillar may vary from pale cream or green to nearly black. Look-alikes: bird damage, zippering with open holes, spots from any cause hollowed by rot.

Here are some ways to prevent it:

Dusting with diatomaceous earth may kill larvae.

Use of a biological pesticide that can kill larvae during the warmest months.

Use chemical pesticides or organic pesticides that are safe for use with edible plants and Tomatoes.

Minimize local food sources. Avoid planting tomatoes near corn or other hosts of the fruitworm to minimize populations.

There are many good website for Tomato pests and disease. Here are a few:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/problem-solvers/tomato-problem-solver/
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/TomFrt/TomFrtKey.html
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/visual-guides/tomato-fruit-problems.aspx

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:28-07:00 January 13th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Aphid Exoskeletons

These appear to be the "shed skins" from sap sucking insects called Aphids. These insects molt thru several developmental stages, leaving their old exoskeletons on the leaves where they are or have been feeding. They typically feed on the newest growth and sometimes flower buds, but you'll also find them on the underside of the leaves, especially if it gets really warm/hot. They also excrete the sugary plant sap (we call this honeydew) which makes the plant parts sticky. This excrement will also attract ants (they eat the excrement) and it provides an ideal environment for black sooty mold to grow. This mold won't infect the plant but it does cover the leaves and can reduce photosynthesis so its a good idea to wash off (with a high pressure spray of water) the honeydew and any sooty mold that shows up. We've included a link for your reference about how to control these common plant pests. We recommend either horticultural oils (only use in the cool morning hours when the plants are also well watered to avoid burning the plants) or insecticidal soaps, but if these don't do the trick with proper and thorough application of the upper and undersides of the leaves, you can ask your local garden center for something systemic.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html

By | 2016-01-13T09:38:49-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Aphid Exoskeletons

These appear to be the "shed skins" from sap sucking insects called Aphids. These insects molt thru several developmental stages, leaving their old exoskeletons on the leaves where they are or have been feeding. They typically feed on the newest growth and sometimes flower buds, but you'll also find them on the underside of the leaves, especially if it gets really warm/hot. If you've not been spraying the undersides of the leaves, that's why they keep coming back. They also excrete the sugary plant sap (we call this honeydew) which makes the plant parts sticky. This excrement will also attract ants (they eat the excrement) and it provides an ideal environment for black sooty mold to grow. This mold won't infect the plant but it does cover the leaves and can reduce photosynthesis so its a good idea to wash off (with a high pressure spray of water) the honeydew and any sooty mold that shows up. We've included a link for your reference about how to control these common plant pests. We recommend either horticultural oils (only use in the cool morning hours when the plants are also well watered to avoid burning the plants) or insecticidal soaps, but if these don't do the trick with proper and thorough application of the upper and undersides of the leaves, you can ask your local garden center for something systemic.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html

By | 2016-01-13T07:52:54-08:00 January 13th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More