Plant Pests

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Tomato Problems

Tomato diseases are very difficult to identify in person -- making a diagnosis by a image is even more so. Having said that I can recommend two sources below that I use on a regular basis, having written the one from the Missouri Botanical Garden while I was there.Yes, it's from Missouri but anthracnose is anthracnose regardless of the location. We recommend that you contact John Warner Scott, a professor of horticultural sciences at the University of Florida's Gulf Coast Research Center. Scott, who is known far and wide in the tomato business as “Jay,” is one of the most prolific breeders of new tomatoes in the state. Over his three-decade career at the university he has developed more than 30 varieties. Contact him at 813-633-4135 or jwsc@ufl.edu.


http://erec.ifas.ufl.edu/tomato-scouting-guide/id-keys/disease-key.shtml
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/Portals/0/Gardening/Gardening%20Help/Visual%20Guides/Tomato%20Foliage%20Problems.pdf

By | 2017-10-08T01:37:23-07:00 March 8th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Spider Mites

Don't worry about the cut stems. They will dry up. The webbing on your plant could be spider mites. We've included a link so you can see what these little sap sucking spider-like organisms look like, but at this stage of damage, you may want to remove the affected leaves and treat with an appropriate pesticidal product as recommended below, or in the web link provided. For future reference, if you catch the problem before it gets too bad, you can control them by spraying with neem oil or pesticidal soap, which can be purchased at most garden centers. Be careful to read the labels and apply any of these types of products properly. Be careful to spray the undersides of the leaves, the stems, and the tops of the leaves. Repeat the application as recommended on the product label to kill any new mites that hatch from eggs afer the first application.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/spidermitescard.html

By | 2016-03-08T16:54:09-08:00 March 8th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Insects On Rosemary

Without looking at this plant with a hand-lens it's impossible to be sure, but this type of mottled leaves is typical of the damage done by either a sucking insect or spider mites. The reason that leaves end up stippled and pale with such infestations is that the insect or mite pierce the leaf again and again as they feed, and this kills the cells in the leaf. Initially the leaves just look stippled, but over time the entire leaf can die.

Leaf hoppers, lacewings and whitefly are three insects that suck plant juices and cause similar damage. If you look closely, or with a hand-lens, and see webs it's likely that spider mites are the cause.

Since most people want to eat their herbs you of course don't want to use systemic or other chemical insecticides. Also, mites aren't killed by some insecticides. You could use one of the insecticide/miticides made from neem or cinnamon however. Another good practice in such situations is to spray the plant with a hard stream of water once a week.

By | 2016-03-08T12:45:21-08:00 March 8th, 2016|Plant Pests|1 Comment
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Aphids On Leafy Vegetables

Its hard to tell from the photo because we can't see identifying characteristics that would confirm, but this could be an aphid because aphids come in a variety of colors. They will typically feed on the newest plant growth. You can identify Aphids (with a magnifying lens) by the two "cornicles" (structures that look like tiny tailpipes) extending from the rear. If you see the cornicles, you will want to control these insects with a pesticidal soap, available at your local garden center or wash off with a strong stream of water. These insects reproduce rapidly (giving live birth, rather than laying eggs), so you can also narrow the possible insect species down if you see that some of them are smaller versions of the larger ones. Sometimes an adult will develop wings and they look a bit different than the rest, but they'll still have the "tailpipes". Also, the white bits are probably the cast-off exoskeletons of aphids, while the green or grayish moving creatures are the aphids themselves.

By | 2016-03-07T23:00:42-08:00 March 7th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Walnut Husk Flywalnut Husk Maggot

There are several pests that can affect the walnut fruit: walnut husk fly and the walnut husk maggot both breed and lay eggs in the hulls of the nuts, the walnut curcullio is a member of the beetle family and it also lays eggs in the nut and the larvae feed on the nuts and the codling moth overwinters in the soil surrounding the tree, lay their eggs in developing fruits and again, their larvae feed on the developing nut hulls and the kernels inside the nut. We cannot identify which is your particular pest, but it is more likely either the beetle or the codling moth. If you have an agricultural advisor or horticulturist that is knowledgeable about nut trees and their pests, suggest you show a few of these nuts with the larvae to confirm the identity as well as your country's recommended control. In the meantime, here is additional information for you.
www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7430.html
extension.missouri.edu/.../DisplayPrinterFriendlyPub.aspx?P=G7185‎

By | 2016-03-07T12:21:54-08:00 March 7th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Aphids On Leafy Vegetables

They will typically feed on the newest plant growth. You can identify Aphids (with a magnifying lens) by the two "cornicles" (structures that look like tiny tailpipes) extending from the rear. If you see the cornicles, you will want to control these insects with a pesticidal soap, available at your local garden center or wash off with a strong stream of water. These insects reproduce rapidly (giving live birth, rather than laying eggs), so you can also narrow the possible insect species down if you see that some of them are smaller versions of the larger ones. Sometimes an adult will develop wings and they look a bit different than the rest, but they'll still have the "tailpipes". Also, the white bits are probably the cast-off exoskeletons of aphids, while the green or grayish moving creatures are the aphids themselves.Here is a link that you might find helpful: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html

By | 2016-03-07T05:08:51-08:00 March 7th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Pests Of Avocado

Its hard to say because we can't see enough detail of these organisms to make a definitive ID. It looks like it could be a sap sucking insect; either: Wooly Aphid - though they aren't common on Avo (that we know of), or it could be Mealybug. We can't say if the larger insect is an adult stage of male mealybug, but we don't really see any adult females that would be ready to mate either. This larger insect could be a beneficial insect preying on the other smaller white organisms, or it could just be a different insect altogether, that happened to be present when you saw it. It does appear as if there may be some feeding damage (again, its hard to see in this photo), so we recommend removing these organisms with a cotton swab or other cloth, and continue to monitor for more signs of them. If you see them again, we recommend you use a pesticidal soap or horticultural oil on the organism directly (you may not need to treat the whole tree). Follow all product label directions to avoid causing damage to plants.

By | 2016-03-06T18:36:09-08:00 March 6th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Aphids

Without a close-up of the insects, but based on the numbers, congregation, and color of them, these are Aphids. These small sap-sucking insects reproduce very rapidly. You will note larger and smaller ones. The larger ones are the females. They are born pregnant as are all their daughters. These insects are "farmed" by ants, so if you see ants on the plant around them, you'll want to control the ants too. The ants protect the aphids from their natural enemies (like ladybeetles and other predatory insects) and eat their sticky honeydew secretions. Aphids may be controlled with hard water sprays to knock them off, and insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils. We've included a web link with more info to help you control the Aphids (and any ants). Use caution and always follow the label directions when using any kind of pesticidal product.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7411.html
(scroll down to the section on Trees and Shrubs for control of Ants on plants)

By | 2016-03-06T00:57:13-08:00 March 6th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Spider Mites

The most likely cause of damage that looks like this on many plants is spider mites. They are sucking insects and cause white mottled stippling on the top of the foliage when a plant is typically stressed. These critters aren't really spiders although they are related to them. They are very hard to see, but the underside of infested foliage often looks dusty, sticky, and vaguely web-like and dirty. You can read more about spider mites and how to control them here: http://bit.ly/1pJ46WX You can also go to your local garden center and ask for an organic or other recommended control for spider mites that is appropriate for your plant and then use the product according to directions. If you don't see the stippling on the tops of the leaves, it is possible it is just normal coloring, but spider mites are very common on houseplants that have been subjected to the dry indoor air of a northern winter.

By | 2016-03-05T21:08:39-08:00 March 5th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Leaf Miner

This damage appears to be caused by a leaf miner. A small fly or moth lays its eggs beneath the surface of the leaf and when the eggs hatch, the larvae tunnel thru the leaf tissue, consuming the nutrients in the foliage. Once the damage has been done, nothing will reverse it. Chemical pesticides are not effective against this pest because most products won't penetrate thru the leaf surface and contact the pest. Once the damage has been done to the leaf, it is not reversible. Usually the damage done by these insects is not going to kill the plant unless the infestation is extensive. Suggest you confirm the problem with your horticulturist at a local garden center and if it is leaf miner damage, an organic control containing Spinosad is effective against leaf miners, but spray in the early evening after the bees have returned to their hives. Once the spray has dried it is safe for beneficial insects and has a 7-10 day residual.

By | 2016-03-05T20:39:08-08:00 March 5th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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