Plant Diseases

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Fusarium Wilt

Without seeing the whole plant, it is hard to get positive identification without lab testing, however this appears to be Fusarium wilt. The first symptom is a slight yellowing of a single leaf or a slight wilting and drooping of the lower leaves. A distinct brown discoloration of the water and food channels can be seen in a cross section of a stem close to the base of the plant.
There are many good online resources that will provide details. Most often, fusarium is present in the soil. Do NOT dump the soil in your pot into your garden. Rather, dispose of it in the trash. Once infected, soil retains this fungus indefinitely.
Without being able to see an entire plant to confirm Fusarium Wilt, here's some more detailed information on Fusarium wilt from the Colorado Extension Agency - http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/Garden/02949.html
Here is a link that might also be helpful:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/DISEASES/fusarwilt.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/tomato.html

By | 2016-03-10T13:54:00-08:00 March 10th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Nutrient Deficiency Clematis

This is not an infectious disease, but probably a nutrient deficiency. Just to be sure (although it appears doubtful from your photo) examine the underside of the leaves for any insects or fungal-type growth which can sometimes cause plant leaves to turn yellow, and send us a new picture if you find anything. Otherwise, your plant appears to be suffering from lack of essential nutrients. Sometimes over or under watering can cause this lack of nutrients because the roots become damaged from a water stress situation and can't function properly to pull up water and dissolved mineral nutrients. We recommend watering your clematis regularly (or when rainfall is not suffecient) to maintain an evenly moist soil, and you may need to fertilize regularly as well. We recommend you ask your local garden center for a fertililzer appropriate for this plant, and follow the label directions for application of the material.

By | 2016-03-09T11:38:49-08:00 March 9th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Winter Injury

This damage is not caused by an infectious disease, but probably caused by a harsh winter, therefore its called winter injury. You can check to see if the branches are still alive by cutting one or two stems about 3 inches below the existing buds. Look for healthy, green or off white tissue that is not brittle. If you find healthy tissue, you can cut the plant back just a bit (removing the dead leaves and buds) to encourage new growth. If the plant does not require the amount of water its currently exposed to, we suggest you move the plant to another location just before or immediately after pruning, apply an all purpose fertilizer, used according to label directions, and water appropriately for the plants needs. This will help to initiate new growth and a healthy root system. If you find brown or brittle tissue when pruning the plant its probably dead, or at least too far gone to generate new growth.

By | 2016-03-09T10:21:32-08:00 March 9th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Maple

Looks like a Maple species ? The common term for this symptom is "flagging" (chunks of branches in a central spot dead as if torched by flame) . Flagging is caused by a) root damage on a particular side of the root system ; b) disease like FireBlight (bacterial) from airborne spores or Verticillium Wilt (fungal) from soil born spores/hype..

FireBlight is more common to the Pears & Crabs (Prunus & Malus spp.).

This may well be Verticillium Wilt , vascular/systemic, no chemical cure. Best prevention is abundant organic matter in soils. Which means adding a good organic compost, simply by mulching. For confirmation of diagnosis: a dead branch can pruned off. Then you can SLIGHTLY sliver bark , like peeling a potato, to reveal vascular cambium tissue. It will show brown/black coloration ( it may also smell bad). There is no cure other than adding organic matter & pruning out dead stuff but it is coming in through the roots.

By | 2016-03-09T05:13:36-08:00 March 9th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Fungal Problem On Cabbage

There are several fungal problems of cabbage and without culturing the tissue in a lab it's hard to say which one is harming your plants. A good pdf handout is available here: nhb.gov.in/vegetable/cabbage/cab002.pdf

If these were my plants I'd get rid of all that are affected. Any plants that are still OK I'd spray with either copper fungicide or Actinovate - both organic treatments. I'd also be sure I was only watering deeply once a week - frequent splashing of water on foliage can lead to any number of fungal problems. (Don't know if this applies to you but the worst way to water is frequently by hand, getting the plants wet as well as the ground. Better to use a soaker hose or sprinkler once a week for a long time.) Actinovate also makes a product to put on the soil - it's a natural bacteria that out-competes fungi. In the space where the cabbage was, there is time to plant Kale seeds, carrots, radishes or any lettuce.

By | 2017-10-08T01:37:24-07:00 March 7th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Caladium Culture

This is not likely an infectious disease but a disorder caused by environmental conditions. It may be that this particular caladium variety does not do well in afternoon sun. There are some varieties that will grow in full sun all day, but many of them are shade loving. In addition, full sun will cause more water loss from the leaves and once caladium leaves wilt, they do not recover well, if at all. Just in case, we want to mention that if fertilizer comes in contact with caladium leaves it will usually cause spotting damage (even if its mixed with water). If the leaves are crispy its too much sun, and if the leaves are soft and "water soaked" its too much water being retained in the soil. We've included a link about growing caladiums for your reference as you can probably narrow down the possible cause in person better than we can from a photo
http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/giam/plants_and_grasses/flowering_plants/caladiums.html

By | 2017-10-08T01:37:25-07:00 March 7th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Rasperry Leaf Drop

You may be onto something with your soil being a problem, especially since the same plants are doing well in another growing medium. Here are a couple of suggestions. First, remove the dead and dying leaves and make sure they don't remain on or in the soil. You may want to keep them in a container for later examination with a local nursery or your extension agency. Also, it looks like this plant may be sitting a bit high in the soil. It should be planted the same depth as it was in the original container. However, keep any mulch or compost away from the main stem. The only way to confirm if your soil has too much fertilizer is with a soil test. Your local extension agency may provide this service at no cost or for a nominal fee. Here's a link that will connect you with them and it has a wealth of information about basic raspberry care, problems and pests in your area - http://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/htm/fruits-nuts/raspberries/

By | 2016-03-07T13:25:06-08:00 March 7th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Tomato Leaf Death

This is probably not an infectious disease, but rather, as you say, caused by weather conditions in the recent past. You will want to pay close attention to your plants and maybe provide fertilizer at flowering and fruit set. Keep up with watering, but you may consider watering more deeply at one time and less frequently because tomatoes need water deep in the soil but don't like to have "wet feet" (too much water closer to the surface, which can happen if you water too often). If the water doesn't soak into your soil quickly, you will want to water until just before runoff starts, stop the water, let it soak in, and then apply water again in the same way; you should do this repeatedly until enough water has been applied. This will also help leach salts that can accumulate in the soil with frequent but not deep watering. HIgh salt content in the soil or water can also cause leaf damage or death. Keep the soil moist to dilute the salts, but don't overwater.

By | 2016-03-04T19:58:35-08:00 March 4th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Olive Tree

This could be caused by more than one issue but the most likely cause (or aggravating factor) could be too much water. We recommend you inspect the soil around the roots closest to the tree and at the feeder roots (at the dripline). If this tree is getting "indirect water" as you decribe it, on a regular basis then the soil is probably too wet for this tree. Mediterranean plants (like Olive trees) don't do well with regular water and become much more susceptible to root rot and crown rot diseases. If this damage is occurring on just one side of the trees, that could be a clue especially if the irrigation is watering that same side regularly; could this be the cause of the "random" damage you see. We've included a link from the UC Davis website that has info about how to look for/test for some of the common disease of these treess
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/olive.html

By | 2016-03-04T17:36:23-08:00 March 4th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Hydrangea

This is an example of leaf spot. There are many types, most of them fungal. Different plants are prone to different leaf spot fungi...black spot on roses, for example. While the leaf spot on your honeysuckle is different than that which affects roses, there may be something about this location that promotes these infections and the most common cause is watering. Frequent splashing of foliage with water is a prescription for leaf-spot fungi on many plants. Be sure that this location isn't being frequently hit with spray from lawn sprinklers, for example. Sometimes next to a house it's dripping from gutters above that causes the frequent wetting of the foliage. Changing the soil won't help. In general, to control leaf spot try not to get foliage wet when watering. Set any automatic irrigation to go on less frequently but for a longer period of time (water deeply less often) - plants that are prone to leaf spot can be sprayed with one of the organic fungicides starting early in the season, before the plant gets the problem.

By | 2016-03-04T09:26:06-08:00 March 4th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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