Plant Diseases

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Giant Spider Lily Advice

It appears there could be a few things happening here that are affecting your spider lily. First, make sure this plant gets as close to full sun as possible. Next, double check to make sure there is very good drainage int he soil and water does not puddle or the soil is not too compacted. These plants do well even near sandy areas, a testament to how much they like good soil drainage. If you are doing all of these things, we recommend you double check what fertilizer you used and consider something a bit milder, as this fertilizer combination could be not geared toward this type of plant. We recommend checking with your local garden center to get their advice on what fertilizer you are using in your area is the correct type.

By | 2016-03-14T03:45:07-07:00 March 14th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Nectria Canker

This appears to be canker, aka nectria canker, although with any disease it's impossible to say for sure without culturing in a lab. The orange that you see are the "fruiting bodies" of the fungus. Canker can occasionally kill trees but often just weakens them. The split in the bottom of this tree is further sign of a tree-in-jeopardy. If this plant is growing near your house or in another location where if it fell in a storm it would do damage you should have it looked at by a certified arborist asap and possibly removed. On the other hand, if this plant isn't where it would do damage if it fell there's no reason not to leave it as long as it's looking good. Once a tree has canker to this extent there is no cure, but some trees can live with the fungus for several years.

By | 2016-03-14T01:12:49-07:00 March 14th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Lawn Problem

Lawn problems, especially diseases, are very hard to diagnose from a photo. You might want to take a sample of the turf to your local nursery for positive id. It may not even be a disease. How often does the area get watered? Is the problem just in one spot? Are sprinklers covering the lawn evenly? Are there any signs of insects in the soil on the edge of damaged areas? As you can see, there are many things that could be happening. You may have to renovate the area. add organic matter and replant but first you need to be sure of whats happening.
Keep in mind, lawn fungicides must be used repeated (often every two weeks) to be effective. Also, most lawn diseases are a result of poor cultural practices, but with a lot rain, its tough.
Sorry we aren't of more help.

By | 2016-03-14T00:27:02-07:00 March 14th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Boxwood Blight

This may be winter damage or it may be boxwood blight, a disease caused by a fungus. It's usually impossible to tell from a photograph, and sometimes damage on boxwood is a combination of winter injury and a fungal disease. Boxwoods are susceptible to several fungal diseases. We suggest you snip a few twigs, both healthy and not, and bring them in a sealed bag to your local county extension office for further identification. They may recommend you remove the afflicted branches to avoid spreading the disease.

If you can't take the plants into an extension service, prune out all stems that the bark has peeled from and shear the plants back by an inch or two to stimulate new growth, then wait and see what happens this spring and early summer. Fungicides do not cure boxwood blight.

By | 2016-03-12T19:04:50-08:00 March 12th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Calla Lily Issues

Your calla lily may be getting too much water, or it could be going dormant. These plants do thrive in soil that is kept evenly moist, but they can be over-watered. The best way to know if its time to water is to feel the soil - if its too wet you can squeeze water out of a handful of soil, if its too dry, it won't hold together in a loose ball when squeezed. If this plant bloomed already, it may be going dormant (yellowing and dieing back to the ground). If this is the case, you need to be careful not to rot the underground bulbs with too much water. Here's a link that may help; follow guidelines whether planting in a pot or outdoors.
http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net/index.php/past-issues-mainmenu-18/102-2011-garden-greenhouse/june-2011/1139-houseplant-411

By | 2016-03-12T13:55:57-08:00 March 12th, 2016|Plant Diseases|3 Comments
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Raspberry Problem

The leaves may have suffered some fertilizer burn from the fertilizer or they could be dying because of the excessive moisture. I would remove some of the dead and dying leaves and try not to keep the soil overly moist when watering. You may want to repot the plant at some time to put in some rough compost, shredded bark or something like that to increase drainage if the soil stays wet all the time. You want the soil moist but not sodden wet. If either of these problems are causing issue, they should be temporary. The fertilizer should eventually wash out and if you let the soil dry some, the leaves may gain a better condition. If neither of these work you may wish to consult with your local county Ag extension agent regarding problems with raspberries.

By | 2016-03-12T07:57:34-08:00 March 12th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Stretched Aloe Vera And Pups

That was the perfect second photo, and yes, it is Aloe Vera (botanical: Aloe barbadensis). I have just never seen one stretch for light that way. If you imagine it as a telescope that has been pulled out, that's why you are seeing those white rings and the couple of pups that are starting. If it were grown in full sun as it should be, imagine collapsing down the telescope (pushing down on the top of the plant) and making those white rings go away and each set of consecutive leaves would be stacked tightly one on top of the other - that would be normal, and the pups would come out near the base of the plant. Your best bet is to stake it to keep it from flopping around and grow it outside in full sun in all the months you don't have frost. Probably cut back on the water too, it looks pretty wet and that can add to the stretching. Usually, water well when you do, and don't water again until the soil has become quite dry, say down a couple of inches in the soil or more - you have to stick your finger in. Thanks for the follow up photo!

By | 2016-03-11T23:03:19-08:00 March 11th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Blighted Leaves

Various leaf spot fungi cause yellow, brown or black dead blotches on the leaves that frequently run together. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow or brown and fall prematurely. Cool, moist weather favors these diseases, especially when new leaves are developing. Shake out all fallen and diseased leaves from the center of the viburnum shrubs and destroy them. Remove all dead branches in the center of specimen plants or hedges to allow better aeration. Mulching helps prevent the disease from splashing up from the ground and infecting plants. Spray at weekly to 10-day intervals with sulfur or Bordeaux mixture or other copper fungicide, particularly in rainy weather.
(Note: Sulfur-based fungicides may harm some viburnum varieties. Test the sensitivity of your particular Viburnum by treating one branch and watching it for 3 days to see if any discoloration occurs. If the branch and leaves seem to be unaffected after that time, you should be able to use sulfur on the plant.)

By | 2016-03-11T05:44:34-08:00 March 11th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Berseem Fungal Problem

We are not professional pathologists, but cloudy days that persist over an extended period of time can lead to fungal diseases such as root rot caused by Rhizoctenia and Fusanium or stem rot caused by Scelortinia. Some cultural recommendations for Trifolium alexandrinum (berseem) include: leveling the area so there is no stagnant water, reduce irrigation during cloudy days and cutting the crop frequently to allow more light into the ground. We suggest you contact a horticulturist familiar with cover/forage crops such as berseem at an agricultural university such as Institute of Agricultural Sciences - University of the Punjab
pu.edu.pk/home/department/53/Institute-of-Agricultural-Sciences‎ or a local department of agriculture for confirmation of the problem and recommended methods of control. We hope you find this information helpful, but again we are not professional pathologists and you should seek the advice of a professional.

By | 2016-03-10T22:31:46-08:00 March 10th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Powdery Mildew On Apples

The most likely cause of curling leaves on apple trees is powdery mildew. Since this isn't a closeup shot it's hard for us to be sure, but from this photo that's what it appears to be. If it's powdery mildew you should be seeing some white to grey spots or powdery-like coating on the leaves, either front or back. If you see that, you will know that this is the problem. Spraying with an organic fungicide might protect foliage that isn't too far gone at this point, but your best option will be to clean up all the leaves that fall and dispose of them (not in your compost pile) and to begin spraying with an organic fungicide or the product of your choice next season BEFORE the plant has a problem. Use according to directions. If you don't think that powdery mildew is to blame send us a few close-up shots that show both the top and bottom of two or three leaves that are in the process of curling and one of a leaf that's pretty far gone.

By | 2016-03-10T21:41:04-08:00 March 10th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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