Plant Diseases

/Plant Diseases

Dogwood

Here are a couple of suggestions based on your tree's appearance and the challenge deciduous trees have their first years in a new location. First, the bare branches are indicative of winterkill which is often most pronounced on the side of the tree that faces the predominate winter winds. Winter watering is a must to minimize winterkill. However, newly planted trees are often susceptible since their root system is still getting established. They aren't able to take in water as fast as needed. You'll want to prune back the dead branches to live wood. Also, it appears to be in a drip system which is good, if it's getting the proper amount of water. Too much or too little will harm the tree. Often when a tree is struggling there can be more than one factor. Here's a great guide on general deciduous tree care that can help you with watering, pruning, fertilizing and general tree care. Although it's from a neighboring state, the growing conditions are the same - http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/635.html

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:23-07:00 February 19th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Coral Fountain Browning

Russelia equisetiformis (Coral Fountain) is a multi-branching, evergreen (in mild climates) subshrub with 4 to 5 foot long arching 4-angled stems that have leaves that have been reduced to very small scale-like ovate leaflets. Both stems and leaves are a bright green color and new grow starts erect but rapidly bends over to form a graceful mound. In full sun the stems and leaves can take on a reddish tint. Primarily in spring and summer, the tips of the branches are graced with bright red tubular flowers, but flowering can occur any time of the year with flower buds only dropping off if temperatures become too cool. Plant in full sun to deep shade though flowering is far better out in full sun or where it can at least get half day sun. Tolerates wind, desert heat and most any soil with medium drainage but does requires fairly regular to occasional irrigation to look its best - can be kept drier in shade but does not bloom well. Stems are and evergreen to around 25° F and can resprout from the base after a freeze.

By | 2016-02-19T16:08:48-08:00 February 19th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Leaf Spot Or Rust On Grasses

This is either one of the fungal leaf spots or a rust disease on grasses. Without a lab culturing it's hard to know for sure which is, and impossible from just a photograph. But what promotes these diseases, and how they are treated once you have them, is the same. Frequently splashing of grasses from automatic irrigation systems is the most common cause of leaf spot diseases on Cape Cod. If you are watering your plants, water deeply less often. A deep soaking every five to seven days so that a rain gauge fills to 3/4 to an inch is best. Water in the morning so that the foliage dries off during the day.

At the end of the fall or in early winter cut these grasses down to about a foot tall and either burn or throw the blades away - don't toss them in the compost or you'll be keeping more of the spores on your property.

Next year you might want to spray the new foliage early in the season with one of the organic fungicides to protect your plants from getting re-infected. Ask at your local garden center for a product recommendation.

By | 2016-02-19T15:14:01-08:00 February 19th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Nutrient Deficiency

Sometimes nutrient deficiencies occur as a result of over or underwatering the plant. We recommend watering the plant well each time you water, but only water often enough to keep the soil evenly moist, keeping in mind that the needs of the plant will fluctuate with change in the weather, and growth. The larger the plant grows, the more water will be required. Avoid watering on a fixed schedule. If you applied a granular fertilizer already it should worked into the soil and then watered well. You may see the leaves become green again, but not always; but you should not see any further signs of deficiency. We recommend using a fertilizer formulated for fruit trees. If you've applied a different type of fertilizer, don't apply anymore of any kind until necessary. You can determine how often to fertilize by following the fertilizer label directions. You might also find this link helpful:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/ENVIRON/nutrientdefic.html

By | 2016-02-19T09:22:59-08:00 February 19th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Yellow Leaves On Liriope

This is not an infectious disease, but probably a soil, root, and/or nutrient issue. According to the link we've included at the end of this message, Liriope need good drainage, a slightly acidic soil pH, and regular fertilizer from Feb thru Sept. You'd think, since both plants are in the same area that soil conditions, water content, pH and etc would be the same for both, but we see these situations quite often. It could be that the poor looking plant has a root problem, or a root problem is being caused by the soil properties immediately surrounding this plant. We recommend you refer to the info in this link, specifically the 'Cultural Practices' section. One other note - some plants suffer from close proximity to walls and fences because these structures reflect light and heat to the plant, increasing light intensity and temps/heat in excess of the plants tolerance.
http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/liriope.pdf

By | 2016-02-18T15:47:31-08:00 February 18th, 2016|Plant Diseases|1 Comment
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Powdery Miildew

Inspect the leaves for a white substance known as powdery mildew. As with many plants, powdery mildew can attack curry plants, leading to distorted and discolored foliage. White spots on affected leaves are always present, and yellowish-brown spots may appear at the tips and throughout the entire body of leaves when the disease is severe. Applying sulfur and horticulture oil fungicides before powdery mildew is present helps prevent the disease. Fungicides that contain bacillus subtilis may kill the fungus after it affects the curry plant.

This is likely powdery mildew disease. It starts out looking like grey mold on the leaf and can then spread to cover the entire leaf surface. You can read more about it, along with options for treatment, here: http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/plant_pests/flowers/hgic2049.html If the various treatments described in the link above do not work and If you start having some wilt on the plant too then it might become difficult to save it.

By | 2016-02-18T11:14:07-08:00 February 18th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Black Spot On Rose

If this is the fungal disease called Black Spot, it is a very common disease affecting landscape roses. It is common when the weather is warm and humid. It can usually be managed by avoiding overhead watering, and removing all affected leaves as soon as they emerge. Discard them in the trash or burn them, never add to your compost. Prune out any badly affected stems.
Our thoughts are to prune your roses (making sure to discard all plant parts) as directed in this article: http://www.rosemagazine.com/pages/pruning.asp
You should also weed the bed as best you can and consider mulching to give them a good head start come spring.
An excellent product that we have used and had good luck with is the Bayer line of products for roses. The All-In-One Rose care is an excellent product for insect, diseases, and fertilization. Make sure to follow the directions on the label. They also have an organic line called Natria if that is your preference.

By | 2016-02-18T06:44:46-08:00 February 18th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Christmas Cactus Root Collapse

Over watering causes damage to roots both by limiting their oxygen exposure and by weakening their tissue. Root rot is a common result of over watering especially if the potting medium is old and has collapsed and become heavy with poor drainage. It is characterized in Christmas cactus by mushy tissue, wilting and pink or reddish discolorations on the leaves. Another tell-tale sign of root rot is a musty or sour smell in the soil. An affected plant should be re-potted into fresh, unused medium and left unwatered for 2-3 weeks. Prune off the badly damaged foliage, and slowly return the plant to a normal water schedule by letting the soil dry out in the top 1" between waterings. It is usually a good idea to cut off some of the healthy sections and get them re-rooted in a separate pot in case the main plant doesn't recover. At least that way you have a back-up especially if it is a favorite or special color.

By | 2016-02-17T08:33:45-08:00 February 17th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Tomato Disorders

This may or may not be an infectious disease, but disorders caused by cultural care practices and environmental issues can cause similar problems, and may make the plant weak and more susceptible to attack by pest and diseases. We often see tomato stems and leaves curl downward after flooding of soils around the root system. This disorder is the result of ethylene production by the plant in response to the lack of air in the soil. This same issue could be caused by heavy soils that restrict deeper root growth. In short, there are several visible abnormalities in leaf color, size, and curling that can all be accounted for by inconsistency in watering, compact soils, soils with high clay content, soils low in organic matter, or too much air around the root system. We've included a weblink with information about tomato culture and common pests, diseases, and disorders.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/tomato.html

By | 2016-02-16T13:21:30-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Split Rock Infection

I hate it when that happens! It apparently picked up some kind of bacterial or fungal infection and you likely will lose it. One last ditch effort that might save it, sounds wacky but can be effective. Get a bottle of ground cinnamon like you use for baking. Cinnamon is a natural anti-fungal and anti bacterial. Shake on a generous amount over the whole affected area - not a light dash, pile it on pretty good so you can't see the infected area. Move it to a bright spot out of direct sun, DO NOT WATER, and let it be for a week or more. My concern is that it won't work in this case because the top growing part appears to be almost separated from the base. If the plant holds its shape after a couple of weeks you might have beaten it. If so, then water cautiously. We've used this on plants in the nursery that develop a rot spot with good success but yours is a bit past critical - see what happens. At least it smells good in the meantime!

By | 2016-02-16T05:18:52-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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