Perennials

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Nutrient Deficiency

From the photo it appears there is be a nutrient deficiency - looks possibly like a magnesium deficiency. If the plant is growing "in-ground" deficiencies are usually not due to lack of nutrients in the soil (unless you used high amounts of soil amendments or organic matter that hasn't broken down yet), but often nutrient deficiency is caused by over or under-watering for the needs of the plant. Over-watering can cause the plant to produce vegetative growth rather than flowers, and underwatering is stressful for the plant and it may respond by not producing flowers if the plant is a flowering one. In water stressed situations, plant roots either begin to rot or dry out and therefore can't function sufficiently to absorb nutrients along with water and we see the deficiency in leaf tissues. We recommend watering more deeply and less frequently rather than providing smaller amounts more frequently. If the water does not soak into the soil quickly and begins to runoff before you can provide a sufficient amount, you can apply water until it just begins to runoff, let that water soak in, apply more again until just before runoff, let that soak in, and repeat this several times during one irrigation (in the same day). We recommend keeping the soil evenly moist, and avoiding fluctuations between dry and flooded soils to keep the fertilizer salts diluted in the moist soil. A slow release/time-release fertilizer is also recommended.

By | 2015-12-11T05:27:45-08:00 December 11th, 2015|Perennials|0 Comments
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Field Bindweed Orchard Morning Glory

Persistent, rampant weed in the morning glory family known as the Field Bindweed. It is a terror in the garden. Here are some options:

Some non-chemical solutions have been found that are somewhat successful in certain situations such as newer and small infestations. One option is to completely remove seedlings just as they emerge from the soil. These new plants do not have the ability to produce the runners that generate other new plants for the first three to four weeks of life. Otherwise, for more established infestations, where practical, covering the area with black plastic sheeting for at least a year is an option. Another similar method that has worked for some involves covering the impacted area with cardboard and then placing several inches of mulch over the cardboard and letting this sit for at least a year. For either of these to be successful, no light can reach the bindweed.

Post emergent herbicides such as glyphosate (RoundUp type products) and lawn weed killers (products containing 2,4-D) also can be used to reduce infestations of actively growing
plants. For the best results, apply a combination of these in early autumn after frost but while the vines are still green. Caution must be taken when using this mix, though. It will kill or damage
most desirable plants, including grass, shrubs and trees. Unlike lawn weed killer, glyphosate can carefully be used in hot weather, for suppression. Always read and follow pesticide labels to
maximize protection of yourself and others and for the greatest effectiveness of the product.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:30-07:00 December 7th, 2015|Perennials|0 Comments
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Bleeding Heart Problems

It's normal for bleeding hearts to produce spring growth, bloom, and then go dormant later in the summer. There are a number of reasons for leaves turning yellow:

Bleeding heart vines enter a state of dormancy during the summer in which they shrivel up and appear to die. But if you live where summers are hot and dry, the leaves of your bleeding heart can turn yellow sooner than usual.

Bleeding hearts are sensitive to overwatering, which oftentimes causes the leaves to turn yellow. Water only twice a week during the summer, and then gradually reduce water toward the end of summer. Throughout winter, water your bleeding heart vine only about twice a month.

According to the University of Illinois Extension, bleeding heart plants are susceptible to verticillium wilt which can also cause leaves to turn yellow; however, wilting usually occurs first. Plants can have the disease some time before symptoms appear.

The University of Maryland website indicates that bleeding heart can fall prey to fusarium wilt as well. This fungal disease attacks the roots and then the lower leaves and stems, working its way up the plant and invading the xylem or the vessels that transport water from the roots to the rest of the plant. Dark streaks may appear on the surface of a cut stem. Lower leaves wilt and turn yellow. As with verticillium wilt, infected plants should be destroyed.

Aphids can turn the leaves of your bleeding heart yellow. Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that, according to “Rodale’s Garden Answers,” can be green, pink, black, dusty gray or white. They suck the sap from the plant, leaving it stunted and distorted. Leaves severely infected will drop off. Aphids may be removed with high-powered sprays of water. If not, aphid lions and parasitic wasps can be used. Spraying natural biodegradable soap at 1 capful per 1 quart of water may also help.

Here's some more information: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/life-cycle-bleeding-heart-plant-69907.html

By | 2015-11-23T20:23:14-08:00 November 23rd, 2015|Perennials|0 Comments
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Snails And Slugs

Sorry for the delay in responding to your questions. The "chewing" damage we see could have been caused by one of several insects, or slugs/snails. If you know you don't have slugs/snails, then we suggest you look for grasshoppers and other insects, like beetles. Grasshoppers, in large numbers can do alot of damage, so you'll want to watch for them, but sometimes its only one that feeds and then moves on. They're hard to catch and control with pesticides so we recommend you look for them every other day or so in case they've laid eggs (they sometimes blend in with the foliage very well) and if you begin to see multiple insects and can't catch them to dispose of them, you could consider a pesticide. It would have to be either systemic or have a long residual to be effective. We've included a link about grasshoppers, and one about snails and slugs, to help you determine if its one of them. Baits formulated for control of slugs and snails are only effective if used exactly right, and some can be very toxic to other organisms (children included). Non-chemical methods are more effective for the long term. The best way to control them is to trap them. You can easily make traps out of melons (carved out, after eating them) or just about anything that will provide a dark, moist place for them to hide under during the day in your garden. (make sure they have room to slither under the trap!) Then you just pick up the trap every day, and dispose of the ones you've caught; then repeat until you think you've got them. Beware that one snail/slug can lay lots of eggs in the soil, so regular cultivation or tilling of the soil surface helps to eliminate the eggs (and helps with weeds too)!
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74103.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/snailsslugscard.html

By | 2015-11-17T19:39:40-08:00 November 17th, 2015|Perennials|0 Comments
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