Spider Mites

/Spider Mites/

Spider Mites

This is being caused by a large population of Spider Mites. These tiny spiders (can only be seen with a magnifying lens) suck plant sap and chlorophyll from the leaves, causing the speckled appearance we see on these leaves. You'll want to verify this ID by looking at the link we've included and examining the upper & lower sides of the leaves with a magnifying lens. You may also see some very fine, disorganized, webbing with mites in the web. If you confirm, you can use insecticidal soaps or horticulture oils to control them, but don't over-use these products because you'll probably be killing other beneficial mites that are natural enemies of these mite pests. When many of the predatory/natural enemies are killed, the spider mite pest population can sky rocket and get worse. You can also help keep the population of pest mites down by occasionally washing off the leaves of the affected plants early in the morning (and allowing them to dry throughout the day). Here's a web-link with more info:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/spidermitescard.html

By | 2016-01-25T15:55:02-08:00 January 25th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Spider Mites

This looks like spider mite damage. We can see that we earlier suggested your damage might be from piercing sucking insects. Spider mites fall into this category of plant pest. Look for the fine webbing and small spider like mites on the under sides of the leaves. The mites themselves are very difficult to see with the human eye, so hold a piece of paper below the leaf and tap or shake slightly to see if anything falls off, or, take a spray bottle of water and spray it in the leaf axils. While the mites are very difficult to see, their webs catch the water and becomes more easily visible. You may wish to show your photo to a local garden center for confirmation of the problem, so they can help you select the right control.

Are you growing under artificial light? Spider mites thrive in hot dry conditions and plants growing under artificial lights are often especially hot and dry. (The distorted light in your photograph is typical of fluorescent lighting, which is why we ask.) Spider mites spread quickly, so check any other plants growing in this area for signs of a problem.

By | 2016-01-25T14:35:32-08:00 January 25th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Leaf Spot On Bishops Weed

This is a leaf spot - most leaf spots are caused by fungi, but a very few cases are bacterial. Without culturing in a lab it's impossible to know which fungus (or less likely, bacteria) you have but the treatment would be the same.
1) Be sure this plant isn't getting hit with water frequently. Frequent splashing of foliage with water from hand watering, an irrigation system, or drips from leaks/air conditioning/gutters is the most common thing that promotes fungal leaf spots. Water gardens deeply less often - if Mother Nature hasn't delivered an inch as measured in a rain gauge per week, water long enough to soak the area deeply (equivalent to 1" in the gauge) once a week.
2. Now that you have a problem, cut all the damaged foliage to the ground and throw it in the garbage to remove as many spores as possible.
3. After clearing out the damage, spray the area with the fungicide of your choice. If you prefer organic solutions, there are still several products available - ask at your local garden center. Treat the area once this fall and spray as the plants start to break dormancy next spring, and repeat according to the label on the product you buy. Be sure to water deeply less often next year.

By | 2016-01-25T12:18:48-08:00 January 25th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Mint Rust

Yes, it appears that your mint has rust. This is a fungal problem and there are many who recommend ripping out all infected plants and replanting mint in another part of the yard far away, or planting in containers as an annual crop from now on. Others say to burn the patch to kill rust spores, but for many people this isn't practical because mint patches are often close to the house or in raised beds, and you don't want to start a fire in either of these places! Our recommendation is that you grow some mints in containers, but that you also try treating this bed with one of the newer biological fungicides that are bacteria based. These products are acceptable for organic gardening and edible crops where most fungicides are not. Two examples are Actinovate and Serenade. You would first cut down the mint that's there, and dispose of the infected plants but not in the compost. Burn them or put them in the garbage. Next mix the product according to directions and drench the soil all around the mint area and just a bit beyond. Finally, begin spraying with the product according to directions regularly as the plants begin to grow. Only water in the morning, and only water once a week.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:26-07:00 January 25th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Chewing Pests

The are many chewing insect pests, so without seeing the organism itself its very hard to say which may have done the damage. We recommend you examine the plant for beetles and caterpillars, and if you find something please send us a photo of it and we'll be happy to look again. Examine both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves, and the stems too, at various times of day and in the evening because different insects feed at different times. It may also be that the pest has moved on and won't continue the damage. If you do not see continuous damage, there's nothing to be done. For caterpillar control, products that contain Bacilus thurengiensis or Bt are very effective and least toxic - you can get this at most garden centers, but there's no need for it if caterpillars are not found on the plant. Most beetles, grasshoppers, and other similar flying insects usually don't cause great harm or concern unless there are high numbers of them. If that were to occur, we recommend picking off as many as possible by hand and dropping them in a bucket of soapy water to kill them before disposing of them. You can also ask your local garden center for an appropriate product to be applied after hand-picking.

By | 2016-01-25T04:55:43-08:00 January 25th, 2016|Annuals|0 Comments
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Normal Variegation Or Nutrient Deficiency

This is not an infectious disease; its either a normal variegation that shows when leaves mature, or its possibly a nutrient deficiency and/or a watering issue. Is this a houseplant called Pothos? Its hard to ID the plant from one leaf and this particular photo, but if its a pothos then the variegation is normal for this plant. If you know for certain that its not a normal variegation then it could be a nutrient deficiency and/or a watering issue. Too much or too little water can cause plant leaves to turn yellow because the roots either drown or dry out and can't function to take in water and the mineral nutrients dissolved in the water. We would expect a much deeper yellow color with nutrient/water issues and the color in this photo appears more white than yellow. However, if you can take some of the soil in your hand and squeeze water out of it then its too wet, or if you take a handful of soil and it won't hold together in loose ball when squeezed, then its too dry. If the soil is kept evenly moist and leaves still turn yellow, then you'll want to fertilize. You can use a slow release fertilizer worked into the top 1-2 inches of soil (gently so as not to damage roots).

By | 2016-01-25T01:33:30-08:00 January 25th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Rose Issues

Most likely there are a couple of diseases on your rose bush. Please keep in mind that it is impossible to diagnose diseases with certainty without proper lab testing. That being said; your rose has a case of powdery mildew and possibly either downy mildew or leaf spot. It also looks as if your bush is in the shade. The optimum environment for roses is: full sun; rich,well-draining soil; fertilizer formulated for roses; and enough water to sustain the plant. When a plant is not given its optimum growing environment, it is not able to fend off disease that it otherwise might be able to. Some preventative steps to take would be to: avoid overhead watering; remove and properly (do not compost) dispose of all affected plant parts and litter; and provide the plant with good air flow.
Here are a few links that might be helpful:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/rose.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7493.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISEASES/downymildew.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISEASES/leafspotdis.html

By | 2016-01-24T23:43:15-08:00 January 24th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Slugs Snails Or Chewing Insects

Looks like snails or slugs but could also be chewing insects, like beetles or caterpillars. We can't see the "black spots" you mention clearly enough to determine type of organism, but beetles and caterpillars leave small droppings (snail and slugs leave behind long, curled feces). Look under the leaves for caterpillars and remove them by hand if you find them. Look for snails and slugs at dawn or dusk and remove them and dispose of them. Also look for slime trails around the plants early in the day to indicate their presence. If you have a dark, moist area of your garden or landscape that may be harboring slugs/snails, we recommend trapping them and/or collecting them from the area every morning until you've eliminated them (or as much as possible). There are also organic snail baits formulated with iron phosphate that are safe around small pets and children. Since snails/slugs lay eggs in soil, we also recommend regular cultivation of the soil with a hoe or claw-type tool around the yard/garden, but avoid damaging plant roots. This link provides great info about managing snail/slugs. Pay particular attention to the info about Baits if you have pets and children. Do NOT get bait on your edible plants.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/snailsslugscard.html

By | 2016-01-24T22:51:23-08:00 January 24th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Golden Barrel Decline

This looks to be a combination of cultural problems, and I'm pretty sure you can't save it. The fact that it is losing the green color (and is probably getting a little soft) is a pretty good indication of root collapse and / or a fungal condition as well. Since I really don't know all of its conditions or what you have done to it besides the fertilizer, here's what you should to to keep one healthy. Regarding the fertilizer, cactus are very light feeders and really need little to none as far as food. You can feed them once a month in the hottest months of the year when they are growing (by you May through August) with an all purpose balanced food like you did, but mixed to 1/4 strength of the package instructions. Make sure that the potting mix it is in drains really well and doesn't stay soggy. When you water, water thoroughly and don't water again until the soil has become almost dry. Never let it stand in water. It should have full sun or bright light all the time as much as possible. Indoors in the winter it will be basically dormant and should still receive as much sun or light as possible, little water, maybe once a month, and no food.

By | 2016-01-24T21:22:49-08:00 January 24th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Brazilian Edelweiss

Sinningia grow from tubers, so there is seasonality to them. When the plant is actively growing, keep it lightly moist. When the foliage dies back, just mist the soil regularly to keep the tubers from drying out too much. Start your normal watering when new leaves start to show. As with most plants, they can survive a short drought, but they donäó»t recover from drowning. Water the soil, not the plant. They are prone to crown rot and gray mold which happens when the leaves stay wet. Do not let the plant sit in water, it must be well drained, and in well drained soil. They have the same light requirements as an African violet. Morning or soft late afternoon light is best. That means an East, shaded West, or North-facing window. By all means, avoid direct sun during the hottest hours of the day. Protect from frost. Some species with particularly large tubers are cultivated by cactus and succulent enthusiasts as caudiciforms. One such example is this one often listed under the older name Rechsteineria leucotricha and dubbed "Brazilian edelweiss" for its covering of silvery, silky hairs.

By | 2016-01-24T21:13:26-08:00 January 24th, 2016|Tropical Plants|0 Comments
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