Honeysuckle Problem

/Honeysuckle Problem/

Honeysuckle Problem

We remember your first submission and we can see the plant has declined since then. Unfortunately, it's difficult to diagnose this type of general ailment from a photo. The first thing we would look at is watering & drainage. You say you water it frequently. Please describe your watering regimen; we want to be sure you're not overwatering. Honeysuckle should dry out a little between waterings; water when the top 1/2 - 1 inch of soil is dry to the touch, and then, water until water comes out the drainage holes in the bottom of you pot. The size of the pot is probably ok for now; it depends on how big the rootball was when it was planted. Did you do the planting? Do you remember if the rootball was much smaller than the pot itself or about the same size? If the soil doesn't seem constantly wet, the next thing to look at is nutrition. Yellow leaves can sometimes indicate a nitrogen deficieny, but since this is newly planted (presumably in fresh potting soil), this is unlikely. Transplant shock is another possibility. The last thing to consider is fungal disease. There are a few fungal diseases that effect honeysuckle; they are more prevalent in wet, humid weather. If you can eliminate the other possibilities, we suggest you send a few leaves to your local coop extension office to see if they can diagnose a specific disease.

By | 2016-01-26T14:42:43-08:00 January 26th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Deformation Of Tomato Fruit

While this type of fruit deformation can be caused by pests, like spider mites feeding on the floral ovary (which matures into the fruit) before/during fruit formation, it can also be caused by other abnormalities in flower part formation or environmental conditions. Someone explained it like this: "where multiple flowers produce tomatoes that grow into one another creating one giant tomato," but more scientific explanations are probably more accurate. We've also copied the following from the webpage listed below: "Zippering usually occurs when the anther of the tomato flower sticks to the developing fruit and produces a scar as the fruit grows, extending from the blossom end to the stem. Sometimes an open hole develops in addition to the scar. The only control is to select varieties that are less prone to zippering. Catfacing is a deformity that occurs during the formation of the flower and is on the blossom-end of the tomato. It can be caused by cold temperatures during flowering, high nitrogen fertilization, or improper pruning. Large-fruited varieties of tomato (such as, 'Brandywine') are more prone to catfacing than others." You can see photos of these conditions at this web page:
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/visual-guides/tomato-fruit-problems.aspx

By | 2016-01-26T12:50:47-08:00 January 26th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Arborvitae Dieback

Arborvitae can lose color and brown for many reasons. Your plant is browning in the middle, which is normal up to a point (evergreens drop up to a third of their needles each year, though they don't drop all at once as with deciduous trees). It's true that either too much/too little water or poor drainage can take a toll. Check the trunk at the soil line to make sure it's not injured or damaged. Look for insects or disease patterns in the foliage. If you can help us narrow down what's going on and send more photos, we may be able to offer more advice.

Occasionally pests such as spider mites are an issue - you can check for them by placing a white sheet of typing paper under a branch and shaking the branch slightly. If present, the spider mites will fall onto the paper and should be easily spotted. Look for other signs, such as webs for spiders, tunneling on the stems and leaves, leaf miners and wet sticky sap that might be a sign of aphids. If you discover a pest, your local garden center or nursery can help you determine effective solutions. (Never spray without knowing what your pest is, because that, too can cause browning!)

By | 2016-01-26T10:20:04-08:00 January 26th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Tomato Nutrient Deficiency

Yes, this could be symptoms of too much water, or watering too frequently - we noticed its in a pot, so make sure water is draining from the pot every time you water. Tomatoes are heavy nutrient feeders at certain stages of growth, and nutrients can be difficult to provide if the plant is not growing in ideal conditions. Here is a link (from the University of CA) all about Tomatoes that will help, but in short Tomatoes need 6-8 hours of full sun each day, and prefer to be watered (at soil level not overhead). Since your plant is in a pot, you may eventually need to water more often as it continues to develop a bigger root system, do not over-water by watering too frequently as this makes for unhealthy roots that can't take up the nutrients from the soil. When your plant is well on it way with flowering and fruit you should fertilize it with an all purpose vegetable fertilizer - consider a slow release fertilizer so that the plant gets a continuous feed for this period of heavy use. Follow the label instructions when fertilizing. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/tomato.html

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:25-07:00 January 26th, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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Scale Insects Severe Infestation

This is a pretty bad infestation of sap sucking insects called Scale. We haven't ID'd to species, but they are damaging the plant and will cause black sooty mold to grow. The insects excrete a sugary, sticky excrement called honeydew that is a perfect "food" for the sooty mold fungus to grow in. The sooty mold spores exist in the environment and won't kill the plant but will cut back on photosynthesis in the affected leaves. The bigger issue is the number of scale insects. They are difficult to control with pesticides because the adult insect body (the egg laying reproductive stage) is protected under the outer covering you see, and some contact-type products are not effective. These look like a soft scale so a horticultural oil will usually work. Follow the label directions to avoid damaging the tree in high temps, dry soil, etc. However, we also recommend you first prune out the most infected branches (being careful to prune properly and for aesthetic value) to reduce the amount of pesticide you'll need to use and to reduce the number of pests that can reproduce. We've included a link with general info about controlling scale insects from the Univeristy of CA.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/scalescard.html

By | 2016-01-26T07:16:31-08:00 January 26th, 2016|Plant Pests|1 Comment
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Fungal Problem

This appears to be a fungal problem of some kind, most fungal issues are caused by fungal spores that over produce, especially during the wet weather season. For the most part, fungal diseases can be prevented by utilizing proper cultural practices such as variety selections, irrigation and humidity management, plant and soil nutrition, pruning, and row spacing. When there is inadequate circulation of air, poor water drainage, exorbitant irrigation, and too much dampness due to rainfall, the fungi can become a problem. Some fungal issues cannot be cured, other fungal issues can be organically controlled with products like Actinovate or Neem Oil, cornmeal, homemade vinegar recipes and more can make a difference depending on what fungal issue you are trying to control. In this photo we are unable to determine the specific fungal issue, so recommend you take a cutting of the plant to your locally owned garden center where a horticultural expert can advise a specific organic treatment. If this is not an option, consider contacting an extension office from a local college as experts there will be able to guide you in the treatment of this plant.

By | 2016-01-26T04:58:45-08:00 January 26th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Nutrient Deficiency

From the photo it appears there's a nutrient deficiency. If the plant is growing "in-ground" deficiencies are usually not due to lack of nutrients in the soil (unless you used primarly unfertilized soil amendments or organic matter that hasn't broken down yet), but often nutrient deficiency is caused by over or under-watering for the plants needs. Over-watering can cause the plant to produce vegetative growth rather than flowers, and underwatering is stressful for the plant and it may respond by not producing flowers. In water stressed situations, plant roots either begin to rot or dry out and therefore can't function sufficiently to absorb nutrients along with water and we often see yellow leaves. We recommend watering more deeply and less frequently rather than providing smaller amounts more frequently. If the water does not soak into the soil quickly and begins to runoff before you can provide a sufficient amount, you can apply water until it just begins to runoff, let that water soak in, apply more again until just before runoff, let that soak in, and repeat this several times during one irrigation (in the same day). We recommend keeping the soil evenly moist, and avoiding fluctuations between dry and flooded soils to keep the salts diluted in the moist soil. A time-release fertilizer is also recommended.

By | 2016-01-25T21:40:01-08:00 January 25th, 2016|Annuals|0 Comments
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Anthracnose

This could be a leaf spot disease called anthracnose. The usual advise is to cut the plants back to about 6 to 8 inches and force new growth, then avoid overhead watering. The natural fungicide, Bacillus subtilis (found in Bayer Advanced Natria Disease Control), is also labeled for anthracnose but it works best as a preventative, not once the disease is evident. It is very challenging to identify diseases by photo, and recommend you again get a second opinion and here are a couple of other sources to learn more:
HGIC 2204 Sweet Corn Diseases - Clemson University
www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/.../hgic2204.htmläó_
Clemson University
Sweet corn disease problems - corn smut, rust, seed rot, seedling disease, virus, root rot, stalk rot, leaf blight, Stewart's wilt, nematodes. Disease control and ...
Sweet Corn Disease Nursery, Crop Sciences, University of ...
sweetcorn.illinois.edu/äó_
Sweet Corn Disease Nursery. 2010 Hybrid Disease Nursery Report Œ‡ Previous Annual Disease Nursery Reports Œ‡ Summary of Hybrid Reactions: 1984-2010.

Sweet Corn Diseases - Vegetable MD Online
vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/.../SweetCorn_Li...äó_
Cornell University
Diseases By Crop (Fact Sheets) Œ‡ Photo Gallery Œ‡ News Articles/ Disease Alerts Œ‡ Diagnostic Keys ... Virus Diseases of Sweet Corn 153VCFS727.30 (1984).

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:25-07:00 January 25th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Oyster Plant

Oyster plant is a short-stemmed, tender foliage plant that makes attractive, small, dense, spreading clumps . It forms a solid groundcover of upright leaves. The six- to eight-inch-long, sword-shaped leaves are green above and purplish below. The unusual flowers, borne down among the leaves, appear as clusters of tiny white flowers nestled within two boat-shaped, purplish bracts. Winter hardy to USDA Zones 9-11 where it is noted for its ease of culture and tolerance for wide range of growing conditions. Best in filtered or part sun locations. Will grow in direct sun with some afternoon protection. Also grows in shade. Plants like a consistently moist but well-drained soil during the growing season, with reduced watering from fall to late winter. Plants also can grow well on rocky soils. Established plants have drought tolerance. Easily propagated by seeds, stem cuttings or division. Tradescantia spathacea, commonly called Moses-in-a-basket or oyster plant, is a clump-forming evergreen perennial that is native to southern Mexico, Belize and Guatemala. It is widely cultivated in tropical areas because of its attractive foliage. It is commonly grown in the West Indies. It can have moderate invasive tendencies if not regulated in landscape.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:25-07:00 January 25th, 2016|Perennials|1 Comment
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Keeping Poinsettia From Year To Year

To keep your poinsettia for next year you can do the following:
1. Remove foil so that the plant has good drainage. Keep it in a very bright window and water before the plant wilts, but don't let it stay swampy wet.
2. In May transplant to a larger pot, put outside in morning sun and afternoon shade. The red color will have faded by that point and some of the leaves may have fallen off.
3. Fertilize regularly through the summer and don't let the plant dry out.
4. In September bring it in again. In September provide a constant 14 hours of darkness out of each 24 hours to stimulate color on the bracts. That means no lights in a room, or light from a streetlight for 14 hours. If you don't do this the plant may get a faint red color in January, but won't be really red as it is now.
5. Poinsettias that have been kept as houseplants for awhile are "leaner and meaner" than the ones we buy at Christmas time; those are greenhouse plants raised in the idea environment of water, fertilizer, light etc so they are big and lush. Without a greenhouse it's difficult to produce the same look again the following year, but they still make interesting indoor plants.

By | 2016-01-25T20:21:01-08:00 January 25th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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