Summer Phlox Woes

/Summer Phlox Woes/

Summer Phlox Woes

I don't think that earwigs are the cause in that they take actual bites out of foliage instead of turning the leaves yellow as seen in the photo. It looks like you dusted with diatomaceous earth, which doesn't hurt, but I don't think it will solve this problem. I suspect the damage you're seeing is due to spider mites. Look under the leaves that are yellowing and see if you see what looks like very fine webish dusty litter. It will be very, very fine. If that's what you see, spray the underside of the leaves as well as the tops with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. Be sure to water these plants deeply once a week if it hasn't rained at least an inch. Plants that are under drought or heat stress are more prone to mite problems.

You could pick off the worst of the leaves and throw them in the garbage as well, which gets rid of some of the mites (less to spray too!) and will help you monitor if the situation is still going on.

By | 2016-02-16T19:19:52-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Dracena Repotting

Thanks for writing back. You should water the plant 24 hrs. prior to transplanting it. You want a decorative plastic container or a glazed ceramic container about the same size as your planter is in now. Purchase some soilless potting mix without fertilizer in it. Over several sheets of newspaper, you can gently knock out the plant from the clay pot. If there are roots that are circling, you should loosen them with your fingers and try to direct them in all directions. It's ok if some of them break. Add some moistened potting mix to the bottom of the container then place the plant in the pot. Make sure it sits at the same level it does in the current pot. Add soil along the sides, packing it in slightly until it is level with the root ball of the plant. Water the plant again thoroughly allowing the water to drain out completely then dump the excess water and place the plant back on the saucer. Good luck!

By | 2016-02-16T17:18:06-08:00 February 16th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Queen Of The Night

A large epiphytic cactus native to Mexico and Brazil. Epiphyllum can reach 20 feet in height (in the tropics). The dark green branches reach 3 feet long. This cactus lacks true leaves; its leaf-like growth is really flattened stems. Its showy blooms appear in late spring or early summer, and its white flowers are 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. This fragrant, nocturnal bloom opens in the late evening and closes again at sunrise. Plant in moist, well-draining soil. Mix two parts peat moss, one part sand and one part pine bark. Place in a site with full sunlight to partial shade exposure. The site should not be an area where temperatures fall below 35 degrees F. Water whenever the surface of the soil is dry. Reduce the amount of water given in the winter. Do not let the soil dry out all the way. Feed every month with a 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer diluted to half strength. Do not fertilize during its inactive period during the winter.

By | 2016-02-16T14:06:59-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Succulents|0 Comments
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Scale Insects Or Stem Canker

Sorry, but its hard to say for certain from your photo. This could be scale insects (the dots and darkening), or it could be a stem canker if it goes all the way around. Looks like a scale more than canker ooze, but its hard to see from the photo if the stem underneath this "bump" is damaged, like with a canker. You can determine which it is by pulling one of the bumps off. If its sticky, like sap, then its a canker. If the bottom of the bump, when turned over, appears to have insect like characteristics (or tiny orange/brown eggs and/or little tiny crawling things) then you'll know it a scale insect. We've included a link about scales for your reference in getting them under control. For info on canker diseases you can search on-line by referencing the type of tree and the word 'canker' (for example: canker diseases of stone fruits). We recommend looking for reliable info from college extension sites that end .edu
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7408.html#SOME

By | 2016-02-16T13:37:07-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Tomato Disorders

This may or may not be an infectious disease, but disorders caused by cultural care practices and environmental issues can cause similar problems, and may make the plant weak and more susceptible to attack by pest and diseases. We often see tomato stems and leaves curl downward after flooding of soils around the root system. This disorder is the result of ethylene production by the plant in response to the lack of air in the soil. This same issue could be caused by heavy soils that restrict deeper root growth. In short, there are several visible abnormalities in leaf color, size, and curling that can all be accounted for by inconsistency in watering, compact soils, soils with high clay content, soils low in organic matter, or too much air around the root system. We've included a weblink with information about tomato culture and common pests, diseases, and disorders.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/tomato.html

By | 2016-02-16T13:21:30-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Buckeye

We think this is one of the buckeyes. ~15 species of deciduous trees or shrubs native to Southeast Europe, Asia and North America with showy spring flowers and large nut-like fruit. Flower color would help determine which species. They are hardy from Zone 4-7.

Buckeyes are often small trees, with a spread nearly equal to their height. Ohio and yellow buckeyes are some of the larger species in this family, with heights of 50 feet or more. What makes buckeyes especially unique is their early spring flowers, which bloom as early as many woodland wildflowers. As well as greening up early, buckeyes also lose their leaves before most other trees in the fall. The wood of the buckeyes is pale and light, and it is sometimes used for paper, crate, and novelty item production. There are seven species of buckeye native to the United States, mostly found in the eastern half of the country.

The tannins in the plant make the fruit and leaves toxic to people and cattle, however native Americans processed them by boiling. Squirrels are ok with them.

By | 2016-02-16T12:49:10-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Bean Pest

There a few too many possibilities for the trouble with your beans. One is spider mites, which leave this tell tale pattern of tiny dots and yellowing leaves. The other is a cultural condition, too much water, too little drainage. In addition, there a number of fungal disease that are transmitted to beans via small insects that suck on the leaf. It isn't the insect that is big problem, it is the disease they vector. If the plant is seriously in decline, remove it an don't put it in the compost. If it tends to 'get better' with time, remove affected leaves, and continue to grow the bean. Its always hard to tell whats happening if you can't see the actual pest. Here's some information on bean pests from University of California: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/beans.html
Let us know if we can help some more. Send a good close-up if you find something. Or take a sample to a local nursery for id and control measures.

By | 2016-02-16T11:51:50-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Camellia Petal Blight

This may be camellia blight, a fungus that is soil-borne. During winter and spring rains, moisture splashes the soil and moves the fungus from the soil to the branches and foliage and then to the buds and opening flower petals. When and if the buds open, the petals decay and are brown and mushy. If infected buds, flowers, and leaves are left on the ground, the cycle will continue and destroy your plant’s flower production. So pick up the fallen camellia debris and dispose in the trash. Also apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the plant, leaving a 2- inch diameter around the base of the plant clear to help break the cycle. And, once flowers are spent, camellias need an acid fertilizer such as Camellia/Azalea food or cottonseed meal. Camellias do best in partial shade or filtered light and regular water. Here is more information: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISEASES/campfbli.html

By | 2016-02-16T09:22:02-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Split Rock Infection

I hate it when that happens! It apparently picked up some kind of bacterial or fungal infection and you likely will lose it. One last ditch effort that might save it, sounds wacky but can be effective. Get a bottle of ground cinnamon like you use for baking. Cinnamon is a natural anti-fungal and anti bacterial. Shake on a generous amount over the whole affected area - not a light dash, pile it on pretty good so you can't see the infected area. Move it to a bright spot out of direct sun, DO NOT WATER, and let it be for a week or more. My concern is that it won't work in this case because the top growing part appears to be almost separated from the base. If the plant holds its shape after a couple of weeks you might have beaten it. If so, then water cautiously. We've used this on plants in the nursery that develop a rot spot with good success but yours is a bit past critical - see what happens. At least it smells good in the meantime!

By | 2016-02-16T05:18:52-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Not Enough Water

It is never appropriate to give a plant a set amount of water at a set interval. You need to water the entire volume of soil in the pot in order to encourage root growth throught the pot. If you only give a little water, many roots will die. Plants' water needs change with the season as temperature, humidity, and number of daylight hours vary. The same plant may need water every 5 days in summer and every 8 days in winter. To correct your problem, water your aspidistra until water comes out the bottom of the pot. (If you don't have a drainage hole in your pot, transplant your houseplant to a container that does.) Don't let the pot sit in water or this may cause root rot. You'll have to pour off the extra water if there's more than a half inch in the saucer so it's better to water slowly so you don't have too much overflow. Water whenever the soil surface feels dry to the touch. good luck!

By | 2016-02-16T04:57:44-08:00 February 16th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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