Shasta Daisy

/Shasta Daisy/

Shasta Daisy

Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum)-Leaf Spot {Leaf Blotch}
shasta daisy leaf spot

Cause Septoria leucanthemi, a fungus that overwinters on plant refuse and on living plants. Spores can be spread by splashing water from rain or irrigation. Once on the leaf, spores germinate and enter through stomata. More than 12 hours of wetting is required for spore germination and leaf infection. Optimum temperature for disease expression is 74°F to 79°F. This species has been reported in both Oregon and Washington.

Symptoms Dark brown circular or semicircular zonate spots with a central sunken pale or whitish area surrounded by somewhat elevated concentric markings. The central pale area may fall out leaving leaves with a shothole appearance. Abundant minute black fruiting bodies (pycnidia) may be seen around the rim of the shothole. Lower leaves tend to show symptoms first. If the disease is severe, leaves may shrivel and die; however, they generally stay on the stem.

By | 2016-02-17T14:24:14-08:00 February 17th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Peachtree Borer

This is the same pest that attacks peaches and plums. It damages the trunk from just below to a short distance above the soil. The adult is a clearwing moth. It is commonly called the peachtree borer. Only the larval stage of the peachtree borer causes injury. Larvae burrow
in and feed on the cambium and inner barkof trees, usually at the base of the trunk from three inches below to 10 inches above the ground line. They also feed on large roots that
are near the soil surface. Larvae construct and feed in galleries. Accumulating gum, frass, and bark chips are pushed out of galleries to the outside These masses are often the first evidence of infestation. Several larvae may develop in one tree. Young trees are particularly susceptible to borers; when infested they are unthrifty and grow poorly. Borers easily damage large portions of the vascular tissue in small trees; mortality is common in these
instances. Older trees infested by borers may exhibit partial die-back, yellowing of foliage, stunted growth, and loss of vigor and productivity

By | 2016-02-17T13:13:09-08:00 February 17th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Peace Lily Problem

We do not see any disease problem but there are a few cultural care tips that might help. Peace Lily plants do best indoors in bright, indirect light, w/regular water, but do not allow the plant to sit in water as this may lead to root rot. Since peace lilies are low light plants, do not place where there is direct sunlight, but do provide bright, indirect light. Black or brown leaf tips sometimes develop when humidity is low or irregular watering practices; place your plants on a pebble tray with water just up to the bottom of the pot to raise ambient humidity. Peace lilies are susceptible to salts in tap water which sometimes causes blackening of leaves. Try using distilled water (steam iron water). Some other things to check on: how often do you fertilize? Make sure you feed with a slow-release or organic fertilizer low in salts that is formulated for container houseplants. Again, make sure the pot has drainage holes, water in the sink and allow the salts to leach out and do not allow it to sit in a saucer or pot with water.

By | 2016-02-17T09:41:18-08:00 February 17th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Christmas Cactus Root Collapse

Over watering causes damage to roots both by limiting their oxygen exposure and by weakening their tissue. Root rot is a common result of over watering especially if the potting medium is old and has collapsed and become heavy with poor drainage. It is characterized in Christmas cactus by mushy tissue, wilting and pink or reddish discolorations on the leaves. Another tell-tale sign of root rot is a musty or sour smell in the soil. An affected plant should be re-potted into fresh, unused medium and left unwatered for 2-3 weeks. Prune off the badly damaged foliage, and slowly return the plant to a normal water schedule by letting the soil dry out in the top 1" between waterings. It is usually a good idea to cut off some of the healthy sections and get them re-rooted in a separate pot in case the main plant doesn't recover. At least that way you have a back-up especially if it is a favorite or special color.

By | 2016-02-17T08:33:45-08:00 February 17th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Peppers

Unfortunately, peppers can be tricky to establish and there are several possible causes for your problems. Damage to pepper leaves can occur for many reasons. It could be situational, like too much water, crowded conditions, soil is too cool, too compact, or nutrient deficiency or excess. We also noticed the peppers are planted right next to the fence which can sometimes cause the yellowing or scorching (brown patches) on leaves because the fence reflects too high light intensity and heat to the plants. Unfortunately, these plants will not likely recover from the existing damage, and even if they did start to improve, they will never be as vigorous as you'd like for pepper fruit production. You may consider starting over with peppers and maybe put them in a raised bed with more organic matter content in the soil. Refer to this website for good info about growing peppers. See the links at the top of the page: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/peppers.html

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:24-07:00 February 17th, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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Donkey Ears Mules Ears

A fast growing succulent perennial from rocky areas of northwestern Madagascar that grows to 12"-18" tall and wide with leaves that can be enormous, from 12"-20" long. The leaves are bronze-green covered with a waxy white covering to look overall gray-green and splotched with maroon-brown blotches. These leaves often have small plantlets developing along the leaf margin. The flower spike begins to rise in fall to grow to a 2'-3' tall stalk that branches near the top with several clusters of pale peach-colored buds that darken and become the calyces holding the darker reddish-salmon petals with flared tips and yellow interior. The whole flowering process lasts nearly 2 months at which point the “mother plant” declines but the many plantlets on the leaves develop rapidly to bloom within 2 to 3 years. Great in a hanging baskets or as a specimen or mass planted in a dry garden. Plant in full sun to partial shade.

By | 2016-02-17T04:11:59-08:00 February 17th, 2016|Succulents|0 Comments
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Psyllid

The raised spots are likely the work of psyllids, common name plant lice, small insects that depending on the species are host-specific, that is one species of a psyllid will colonize on one particular plant. They become abundant when temperatures warm and host plants develop fresh growth. The psyllid sucks the nutrients out of the foliage, stems, etc. and galls form on the leaves or buds. They also have ecreta, known as honeydew which can lead to the development of black sooty mold. Most experts agree that the psyllid damage is primarily aesthetic, but if population is extensive and the plant is yellowing there are several options: Use yellow sticky traps, spray the plant with Neem or horticultural oil (will need to re-apply until the problem is controlled) or if the plant is an ornamental, not an edible, a chemical insect control containing imidacloprid. Visit your local garden center for confirmation of the plant, the problem and appropriate remedy.

By | 2016-02-17T01:45:18-08:00 February 17th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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One Of The Many Varieties Of Heuchera

This is also known as coral flower and is a genus of about 55 species but it has grown so popular it now has an unknown number of hybrids. It has also been bred with others plants called Tiarella so you have x Heucherella. They like moist, well drained soil and depending on the variety like sun, part sun or light shade. They come in so many colors now and they are a beautiful addition to the garden, but we cannot identify a specific cultivar for you. Suggest you consult the following resources to help you narrow down your search:
The Heuchera Society :: photogallery
theheucherasociety.org/Photo-Gallery.php
The Heuchera Society. Home · About us · News · Blog · Plant of the Month · Membership · Photo Gallery · Cultivation > · Heuchera History · Contact · Links ... Hardy Plant Society - Heucheras Booklet or
www.hardy-plant.org.uk/publications/heucheras.php
The Hardy Plant Society is a registered charity that promotes the cultivation and ... It also describes the various Heuchera species

By | 2016-02-16T23:54:24-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Hechtia

Hechtia (pronounced HECKtia) is a small genus of bromeliad related to the pineapple and Spanish Moss. While many other bromeliad genera have hundreds of species, Hechtia boasts only fifty. They can be found natively in areas that are primarily arid. They thrive in bright, sunny deserts. Hechtia are not succulents, but they can be treated as such. They do not hold water in their tissue the way true succulents do. Instead, they slow their growth when water is not available. Use gritty potting mix that is well draining. Adding some coarse sand, perlite, or small stones to regular potting mix should provide appropriate drainage for these plants. To keep them growing quickly and healthily, water them regularly during the spring and summer growing season. Allow the potting mix to dry a bit between waterings, as too much water can cause rot. In the winter, hold back on the water. It is better for the plant to be too dry than too wet. They prefer full sun to only very light shade if at all.

By | 2016-02-16T22:42:36-08:00 February 16th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Spider Mites

This looks like spider mite damage. Look for the fine webbing and small spider like mites on the under sides of the leaves. The mites themselves are very difficult to see with the human eye, so hold a piece of paper below the leaf and tap or shake slightly to see if anything falls off, or, take a spray bottle of water and spray it in the leaf axils. While the mites are very difficult to see, their webs catch the water and becomes more easily visible. You may wish to show your photo to a local garden center for confirmation of the problem, so they can help you select the right control.

Are you growing under artificial light? Spider mites thrive in hot dry conditions and plants growing under artificial lights are often especially hot and dry. (The distorted light in your photograph is typical of fluorescent lighting, which is why we ask.) Spider mites spread quickly, so check any other plants growing in this area for signs of a problem.

By | 2016-02-16T20:37:30-08:00 February 16th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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