Leaf Curl Plum Aphid

/Leaf Curl Plum Aphid/

Leaf Curl Plum Aphid

This is insect pest damage caused by a particular species of sap sucking Aphids. Its not unusual, unfortunately. We've included a link with all the info you'll need to deal with it now (which may include pruning the effected branches) and in the future. Please note that this info was prepared for orchard managers, not necessarily for backyard trees, but the info is still pertinent. For example, you'll need to treat during tree dormancy, and at other times to reduce the insect population and/or avoid this next year. (Some of the pesticides listed in this link will not be available to you, unless you are a licensed pesticide applicator). Please note that spray applications of pesticides at this stage will not be very effective, if at all, on the aphids feeding in the curled leaves because the pesticide won't contact the insects. To deal with any that are not hidden in the curled leaves you can use a horticultural oil, like Neem.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r611301811.html

By | 2016-02-20T21:16:42-08:00 February 20th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Gardenia

Gardenias let you know when they are unhappy. It looks as though fella isn't feeling well. To begin with, I suspect the leaves began to turn yellow and fall off. Bugs. Probably scale on the underside of the leaves. Spray the entire plant, especially the stems and trunk, with two applications of any product listed for controlling scale insects: Sevin, malathion, Safer's soap. Next apply a systemic insecticide containing Imidachloprid. Follow the directions carefully. It is a systemic insecticide and will be absorbed by the roots and will deter future bugs from the inside out. You will need to do this every six months. Next and very important add two cups of fertilizer designed for gardenias, azaleas, camellias to the mulched area and water well. That's it. You should notice a change in 30-45 days. You may have to trim any dead branches back to until you see green tissue when you cut. That's it. Let us know how things work out.

By | 2016-02-20T20:51:58-08:00 February 20th, 2016|Shrubs|1 Comment
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Clerodendron

Native to China and Japan, this clerodendrum is a coarse, sometimes unkempt, deciduous shrub or small tree that grows 10-20’ tall. It is most often seen as a suckering shrub. It must be trained to grow as a tree and is rarely seen growing in that form. As an ornamental, this shrub is perhaps best noted for its late summer flowers, showy fruit and malodorous foliage. Tubular, fragrant, white flowers in long-peduncled cymes (to 6-9” across) bloom in the upper leaf axils from late summer into fall. Flowers are followed by small bright blue fruits, each subtended by a fleshy red calyx. Opposite, toothed to entire, ovate, dark green leaves (to 5-8” long) produce no fall color. When bruised, the leaves do produce a unique aroma reminiscent of peanut butter as memorialized by the sometimes used common name of peanut butter tree for this plant. Harlequin glorybower is a more frequently used common name. Clerodendrum comes from the Greek words klero (fate) and dendron (tree), hence the infrequently used common name of fate tree.

By | 2016-02-20T20:10:55-08:00 February 20th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Buffalo Berry Soapberry

This appears to be the shrub Canadian buffalo berry, russet red buffalo berry, soap berry. If you can send us a clear, close up of the leaf arrangement and berries, we'd like to take a closer look. Here's the info on Canadian buffalo berry:
Range
Shepherdia canadensis covers area from Nova Scotia, Canada down south to New York and Ohio on the east coast of North America, and from Alaska down south to New Mexico and Arizona following the Rocky Mountains. It extends through the northern states of the United States.

Climate, elevation
It is most common in dry to moist open woods and thickets and found in lowlands to middle elevation forests. Approximately 4950 feet – 8200 feet.

Local occurrence (where, how common)
Shores, riverbanks, dry slopes, moist north slopes, open rocky woods, and occasionally in calcareous marshes. It forms dense thickets along riparian zones and valley bottoms.

Habitat preferences
It generally does best in partial shade, nutrient poor soils, and dry to moist water conditions.

By | 2016-02-20T13:19:17-08:00 February 20th, 2016|Shrubs|1 Comment
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Water And Fertilizer Issues

We typically see yellowing of leaves in response to over or under watering, and/or nutrient deficiencies. Water should be applied when needed (according to weather conditions and plant size) rather than on a fixed schedule. When applied, water deeply (fewer times per week as opposed to daily) and maintain even soil moisture (avoid fluctuations in very dry and very wet/flooding of soil). Insufficient water dries out roots, and too much water drowns roots; both situations result in a lack of nutrient uptake. We've included a link about Cucumbers so you can refer to this for appropriate fertilizer applications. If watering is done properly and leaves are still yellow you can use this rule of thumb: uniformly yellow lower/older leaves means a lack of Nitrogen. Yellow areas between the veins on newer leaves (at the top of the plant) results from a lack of Iron. We recommend you ask your local garden center professional for an appropriate fertilizer. Here' the link:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/cucumbers.html

By | 2016-02-20T11:31:38-08:00 February 20th, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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Fungal Leaf Spot On Rhododendron

This looks like the typical damage done by one of the fungal leaf diseases of Rhododendron. When the fungus kills an area of the leaf the dead tissue drops out, making it look like something is eating the leaf. But when you can see brown spots where the leaf tissue hasn't fallen away yet, you know that it's a fungal problem not an insect problem. Ask at your local garden center for a fungicide labeled for leaf-spot on Rhododendron and use according to directions. Most garden centers carry organic fungicides as well as conventional ones, so you'll be able to find a product that meets with your gardening philosophy.

In seasons to come, try to water your plants so that the foliage isn't frequently splashed with water. Frequent water, which sometimes comes from drift off lawn sprinklers, is the cause of many leaf-spot diseases. For this reason it's best to water all plants deeply but less often.

By | 2016-02-20T08:15:13-08:00 February 20th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Italian Prune

The Italian plum tree (Prunus domestica) produces a versatile fruit that can be canned, frozen or made into jellies and preserves. It is especially good for drying. The Italian plum or prune tree, also called "Fellenberg," grows to 15 to 20 feet high with a slightly larger spread. Because they are late bloomers and have a long growing season, Italian plum trees do best when planted in areas with a later frost date. They also respond well in areas with cold, wet springs. The pink or white blossoms appear in mid-spring.
Fruit
The Italian plum tree bears sweet purplish-black fruit of medium size. The flesh of the fruit is yellow-greenish. You can expect the tree to begin setting fruit three to five years after planting. It will reach full production at about 10 years of age, and you can expect it to provide fruit until the age of 15 to 20 years. Each tree will produce up to 3 to 5 bushels per year.

By | 2016-02-20T05:58:44-08:00 February 20th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Artichoke

It sounds like your garden is a wonderful gift from your grandfather. Harvest the top stemmed artichoke first and then prune that stem to the ground unless there are lower artichoke fruits developing - the lower ones will not be as large. Make sure you harvest before they open up. If allowed to open, it will develop beautiful purple flowers (stamens), but will no longer be edible. Once you have harvested all the artichokes and cut back the fruit bearing stems, you may have another crop in the fall. After the fall artichokes have been harvested, cut down the plant to the soil level, cover with mulch and it will come back in the late winter/early spring. During its growth and bloom cycles, feed with a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for vegetables and water regularly. For more information, visit online websites such as:
Growing Artichokes - Bonnie Plants
bonnieplants.com/growing/growing-artichoke

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:23-07:00 February 20th, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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Mountain Harebell

Harebell, often called “bluebell”, is a flower found around the world in the Northern Hemisphere but most often, associated with Scotland. Harebell has many common names including bellflower, lady's thimble, witch's thimble, heathbells, fairies’ thimbles, and dead men’s bells.

Harebell grows in a variety of habitats ranging from full sun to shade; dry to moderate moisture; woods, meadows, cliffs, and beaches; in sandy, gravely soil. It can be found at elevations up to 12,000 feet in the Western United States.

Harebell flowers in the summer and fall. Its stem leaves are narrow and grass like, but the basal leaves are rather round, hence the specific name rotundifolia. The narrow, wiry stem averages about a foot tall, while the thin, papery flowers are usually about an inch long. The plant has a milky sap when the stem or leaves are broken. The plants are much hardier than they look.It has large, tubular bell flowers.The nodding, bell-shaped, lavender flowers are borne in loose clusters at stem tips.

By | 2016-02-20T04:19:46-08:00 February 20th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Peach Tree Issues

Let's address the Peach Leaf Curl first: once it shows up in the spring, there is nothing you can do short of removing and properly (do not compost) disposing of all affected plant parts. Before you plant, it is a good idea to choose a peach variety that is Peach Leaf Curl Resistant. If you don't have that luxury, the tree needs to be treated when it is dormant. Here is an excellent link that might be helpful:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7426.html
Regarding the aphids: It sound like you already have some knowledge of the relationship between the aphids and the ants. Getting rid of the ants is helpful as they protect the aphids from natural predators. Getting rid of the aphids may prove a little more difficult. This is a good aphid link:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7404.html
This a little more advanced link regarding peaches in general:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.peach.html

By | 2016-02-19T23:54:56-08:00 February 19th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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