Aphids On Leafy Vegetables

/Aphids On Leafy Vegetables/

Aphids On Leafy Vegetables

It is really hard to tell from this photo but these look like they could be aphids. They will typically feed on the newest plant growth. You can identify Aphids (with a magnifying lens) by the two "cornicles" (structures that look like tiny tailpipes) extending from the rear. If you see the cornicles, you will want to control these insects with a pesticidal soap, available at your local garden center or wash off with a strong stream of water. These insects reproduce rapidly (giving live birth, rather than laying eggs), so you can also narrow the possible insect species down if you see that some of them are smaller versions of the larger ones. Sometimes an adult will develop wings and they look a bit different than the rest, but they'll still have the "tailpipes". Also, the white bits are probably the cast-off exoskeletons of aphids, while the green or grayish moving creatures are the aphids themselves.Here is a link that you might find helpful:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7404.html

By | 2016-02-21T12:44:57-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Stress And Leaf Spot

There are several things that cause tomato foliage to look like this and you may have more than one thing going on. 1. Uneven watering causes tomato leaves to curl and drying out in between waterings can cause edges to brown. This looks like the pot might be too small for so many tomato plants. Usually one tomato should be grown in a pot that is at least 18" to 2' in diameter and two feet tall. Smaller pots just won't support their growth. 2. Leaf spot happens when a tomato is frequently splashed with water especially if the plant is watered in the evening so the leaves stay damp overnight. Try to water tomatoes without getting the leaves wet. 3. Another thing that causes browned edges is fertilizer burn. If you fertilize a thirsty plant (dry soil) the edges can brown. I'd suggest that you only put one tomato plant per pot and use a very large container completely filled with potting soil (no rocks or shards in the bottom!!) and be sure there are drainage holes that aren't covered.

By | 2016-02-21T12:27:32-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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Burros Tail Leaf Shrivel

This is a hard one to figure just from a photo. First, it is possible that there is no problem at all other than maybe some erratic watering. If the soil had gotten too dry at some point, it could have caused some root collapse. This could cause a stem to die and start the leaf problem. Succulents like other plants do shed leaves from time to time but usually they are the oldest ones closest to the bottom of the plant. These seem to be somewhat random as to on which stem its happening. Worst case scenario which is impossible to see from this photo is the possibility of a mealybug problem down around the base end of the stems. If you can look down in there without knocking too many "jelly beans" off, if you see a white cottony bunch of little critters that's a problem. If so, I would just take a bunch of healthy cuttings off the plant (away from the bugs) and start a new plant and ditch the rest. Hopefully you are just seeing some natural attrition and possibly just a watering issue.

By | 2016-02-21T12:04:14-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Austrian Pines Dying

We apologize but all of our advisors studied your photo and could not come up with a definite answer for you. It was decided that it takes closer examination - if possible take a cutting to a garden center that is knowledgeable about pine trees. Suggest that you contact your local cooperative extension office and explain about the problem. Here are some sources that provide information about Austrian pines, Pinus nigra.
http://www.mnn.com/earth-matters/wilderness-resources/stories/mysterious-outbreak-killing-montanas-austrian-pine-trees and :http://csfs.colostate.edu/pdfs/bark-beetles-brochure.pdf. Please let us know what you find out as this is how we learn as well.

Pinus nigra ( Austrian Pine ) - Backyard Gardener
www.backyardgardener.com/plantname/pda_1e9f.html‎
Learn about Pinus nigra ( Austrian Pine ) and see photos with detailed growing ... They can be subject to many diseases, such as damping off, root rot, dieback, blister rust, ... This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary.

By | 2016-02-21T07:59:47-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Mandevilla Vine

This is a tropical vine that can be used as a summer annual or house plant in your area. It grows best in full sun and will produce lots of flowers all summer long. It will die when temperatures go below freezing, but you could bring it indoors and keep it as a houseplant, although it probably won't flower either indoors or until late in the summer next season. These plants need specific hours of daylight in order to come into bloom - they are given this at commercial growers but home owners don't tend to supply the artificial lit "long days" turning into shorter days that bring the plant info flower. So many people who overwinter this are disappointed that although the plant lives and grows well once it's outside again, they don't start to flower until sometime in August. If you want one that's going to bloom all summer, buy it fresh from a garden center every spring so it's already flowering.

By | 2016-02-21T07:34:33-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Vine Plants|1 Comment
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Echeveria Purpusorum

Native to slopes of Puebla, Mexico, forms a rigid rosette of nearly-triangular dark green leaves with reddish-brown markings and a silvery overlay. Excellent as a windowsill plant. In habitat, many Echeverias grow on rocky outcroppings at higher altitudes. In this habitat, the water drains quickly away from the roots of the plant, never allowing the plant to remain waterlogged. For this reason, it is essential in cultivation to use a very porous soil, which will allow quick drainage. Full sun to very bright light is required to prevent “stretching” of Echeverias (“stretching” occurs when a moderately fast growing plant such as an Echeveria, is grown in dim light or over-fertilized, which causes overly lush growth that contributes to weak, pallid plants). Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch. Protect from frost. E. purpusorum is a highly variable plant in terms of leaf shape, color and markings.

By | 2016-02-21T06:44:03-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Succulents|1 Comment
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Chewing Insect

The problem with chewing insects such as grasshoppers, beetles, caterpillars (too numerous to name) etc. is they move about and often are difficult to spot among the green foliage. Chewing insects can be large enough to see with the naked eye, but they can be green, brown, black, etc. so look closely and pluck off any you see on this plant or its neighbors as long as the infestation is not too extensive. If it is extensive, maybe you can spray with an organic control for chewing insects recommended by your local garden center, such as Bt or Spinosad. Bt is a contact only control and Spinosad has a 7-10 day residual but spray Spinosad in the early evening after the bees have returned to their hives. Once dry it is safe for beneficials. However, the most benign control is pick and squish. Also look for slime trails to see if the damage is due to slugs/snails, but we think it is likely a chewing insect.

By | 2016-02-21T04:54:37-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Aster Daisy Family

These could be from the family of Composites include many great garden plants and - yes - many weeds with a great talent for spreading their seeds around, as your plant might do in exactly the way that dandelions do (yup, same family). They can be notoriously hard to identify even when the flower is present. However, we believe your weed is in this plant family and while it resembles the Willow Aster, we found a similar weed, the Oldfield Aster, that it may more closely resemble. You can do a google or yahoo image search to see if you weed more closely resembles this aster. Regardless of it's official name, the removal strategy is the same. Hand pulling when the soil is moist, not letting the blossoms go to seed, and considering using a broadleaf herbicide. You may want to check with a local nursery for the best herbicide options and instructions. You have a lovely garden bed - best of luck to you in managing your weedy intruder!

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:23-07:00 February 21st, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Aphids

These appear to be common sap-sucking insect pests (found on many plants) called Aphids. They are pretty easy to control. The females reproduce live young (minatures of themselves) in multiple numbers, and without being fertilized by a male, so they can reproduce quickly in the right environment. As they suck out the sugary plant sap they also excrete it, which makes the leaves sticky. We recommend you control this population as soon as possible by either spraying off with a high pressure spray of water, picking off the most infested leaves, and when new populations are found clean/wipe them off by hand, and continuing to do so until they stop showing up. You can also use a product like pesticidal soaps or an horticultural oil. Be careful to follow the directions on all product labels. (The oil in particular can cause plant damage if applied incorrectly/under the wrong temp and moisture conditions). We've included a link with more info about Aphids and ways to control them.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html

By | 2016-02-21T03:48:22-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Tomato Blossom End Rot

This is a physiological disorder common to tomatoes and peppers in particular. It is the result of a calcium imbalance in the plant, often brought on be erratic watering or temperature fluctuations, but occasionally by an actual lack of calcium in the soil. Hard pruning can make it worse as can overuse of nitrogen-rich fertilizer. You can add calcium as a spray (available at your local garden center), for future developing tomatoes. Harvest and cut off the affected fruit as a green tomato as it will likely rot from here on. Or you can wait to see if the affected fruit ripens. If it does, the fruit is edible except for the hard brownish part of the blossom end rot. Just cut around it. Once the blossom end rot occurs on your fruit it cannot be reversed. For future developing tomatoes, be sure to keep your tomatoes evenly watered, but not soggy and feed with a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for tomatoes.

By | 2016-02-21T02:42:11-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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