Spurge

/Spurge/

Spurge

This appears to be a euphorbia known as spurge. You can confirm this id by taking a cutting, if the plant bled white sap, then it is a euphorbia. The best way to propagate these is by divisions taken now (divide the rootball with a shovel and transplant part of it where you want to grow it). But you can also propagate it from cuttings taken now. After you make the cutting, put the stem in warm water for a few hours so that the white sap doesn't congeal and seal off the bottom of the stem. Then dip the cutting in a rooting hormone and plant in a pot full of potting mix. Make a plastic tent over it (easily made with a coat hanger and a clear plastic sleeve that comes back from the cleaners with your clothes) to hold in the humidity. Keep the soil moist, and keep the plant in a frost-free, warm place (like a north window) where it gets plenty of indirect light, and it should root in a couple of weeks.

By | 2016-02-22T04:00:39-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Parasitized Aphids

These appear to be parasitized Aphis (as best we can tell from the photo) These Aphids are dead and no longer capable of doing damage to your plants. In addition, Aphids are sap sucking insects and do not chew plant parts, so they are not doing that damage to your plants. Seeing this parasitization in your garden is a good thing! We've included a link about parasites of Aphids so you can learn about how this occurs and why its a good thing. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/NE/index.html
Also, there are a number of other possibilities for pests that could be chewing the plant, so we've included a link to help with that too. It appears to be either beetle (maybe Darkling Beetle) or caterpillar (maybe Loopers). Beetles may not feed or be seen during the day, and some caterpillars blend in to the foliage very well, so you'll need to inspect leaves (both sides) and stems at various times of day to try and find the chewing culprit. If you find something and want to send us another close-up photo of what you find we'd be happy to look again.

By | 2016-02-22T03:58:54-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Beneficials|0 Comments
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Lilac

Your plant's foliage does look like a Lilac, but we can't be sure without seeing flowers, the same problem you are having since it has not bloomed for you. Lilac produces fragrant trusses of flowers in blue, purple, pink, white. Most require winter chill and this might be the problem in your zone. There are some such as the Descanso hybrid lilacs that have been bred for the moderate temperatures of Southern California, but if yours is a chill-required variety, chance are slim that it will bloom. All lilacs need full sun or where summers are hot, light shade and regular water. Prefers well-draining neutral to slightly alkaline soil. If you do get it to bloom, prune just after flowers are spent to encourage new shoots and better flowering for the following year. Feed with a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for blooming shrubs about once a year just as the buds are beginning to emerge.

By | 2016-02-22T03:40:30-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Plush Plant

Echeveria harmsii, native to Mexico, is a shrub-like Echeveria with lance shaped green leaves covered densely with hairs. In cold weather, leaves blush rose-red and look like red velvet. Bright orange flowers are amongst the largest for the genus. Excellent color for holiday wreaths, rock gardens and dish gardens. In habitat, many Echeverias grow on rocky outcroppings at higher altitudes. In this habitat, the water drains quickly away from the roots of the plant, never allowing the plant to remain waterlogged. For this reason, it is essential in cultivation to use a very porous soil, which will allow quick drainage. Full sun to very bright light is required to prevent "stretching" of Echeverias ("stretching" occurs when a moderately fast growing plant such as an Echeveria, is grown in dim light or over-fertilized, which causes overly lush growth that contributes to weak, pallid plants). Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch. Protect from frost.

By | 2016-02-22T02:09:28-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Succulents|0 Comments
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Psyllid

The raised spots are the work of psyllids, common name plant lice, small insects that depending on the species are host-specific, that is one species of a psyllid will colonize on one particular plant. They become abundant when temperatures warm and host plants develop fresh growth. The psyllid sucks the nutrients out of the foliage, stems, etc. and galls form on the leaves or buds. They also have ecreta, known as honeydew which can lead to the development of black sooty mold. Most experts agree that the psyllid damage is primarily aesthetic, but if population is extensive and the plant is yellowing there are several options: Use yellow sticky traps, spray with Neem or horticultural oil (will need to re-apply until the problem is controlled) or since the plant is an ornamental, a chemical insect control containing imidacloprid. Visit your local garden center for confirmation of the problem and appropriate remedy.

By | 2016-02-21T23:49:52-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Your Parlor Palm Problem

Difficult to tell for sure in the photograph, but if only a few fronds are affected, it might be due to sun scald or insufficient light. Place in an area indoors where it receives bright indirect light. Look for sucking insects such as aphids, scale or mealybug that suck the nutrients out of the leaves and stems. Also if you allow the plant to sit in water, root rot may result affecting the foliage. When watering, water in the sink, allow it to drain out completely before setting it back in the cover pot. Also many houseplants are sensitive to minerals/salts in the tap water. Suggest you switch to steam iron water and to avoid salt build up in the soil, feed with a slow-release or organic fertilizer formulated for container houseplants. If you disagree, please take another photo in better light showing the detail of the leaf problem as well as any other information you might have about it and we will try again for you.

By | 2016-02-21T20:53:55-08:00 February 21st, 2016|House Plants|1 Comment
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Late Blight

This might be tomato blight, likely late blight, at least from your description. There are several types of blight, they may start at the top of the plant or at the bottom and work their way up. Late Blight, Phytophthora infestans, is an odd organism in that it behaves somewhat like a bacteria, but also like a fungus. It will eventually also attack the main stems and can progress very rapidly. Some splash up from the soil surface and others come in on insect feet. Sadly, there is no treatment for a plant in this condition. We suggest you dispose of this plant and its soil in the trash, not the compost bin, and start anew. The entire plant should be pulled and put in the garbage or burned. Make sure the fruit is taken too. Please get a second opinion from you local Extension office or garden center for confirmation by taking a few leaf samples in a baggy so that they can identify it in hand. We wish we had better news for you.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:23-07:00 February 21st, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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Buffalo Burr Or Kansas Thistle

Thorny Buffalo Bur, sometimes called Kansas thistle and prickly nightshade, is an taprooted annual weed. It bears long, yellow spines on stems, leaves, and flower heads and can grow up to 2 feet high. Drought resistant, its highest occurrence is in dry, exposed soil. The oblong leaves are 2-3 inches long with deep rounded lobes and are covered with very dense, stiff, and sharp spines. Bright yellow flowers can be seen in summer. In the fall, berries up to 3/8 inch in diameter are enclosed in the dried flower parts and are filled with black, wrinkled, flat pitted seeds. Control of this weedy plant is important as it is a host for the Colorado potato beetle. When mature, the main stem breaks near the ground and the plant rolls like a tumbleweed, widely scattering the 8500 seeds that each plant produces. Buffalo bur can be pulled when the soil is moist. Be sure to wear gloves to avoid injury from the spines.

By | 2016-02-21T17:16:51-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Weeds|0 Comments
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Moss Prevention In The Garden

Moss is an opportunistic plant in the mild wet NW landscape. When soils are compacted, lacking nutrition and aeration (lack of drainage) you get moss and more commonly weeds. When you fix the problem that is shown by the symptom (moss) then you will no more have a moss problem.
Steps for resolving moss/weed issues;
1) Make sure that you gently cultivate your soil in the open and unplanted areas once per year with a tool like a "Winged Weeder", "Scuffle Hoe" or "Hula Hoe". No need to go deep or overwork the soil as this can have adverse effects as well.
2) Top dress your open, unplanted spaces with a layer of 1-2 inches of compost, this adds key nutrition, but also adds the opportunity for beneficial organisms to have an environment conducive to keeping your soil happy.
3) NEVER leave bare, exposed compost or topsoil. We call this "Naked Soil Syndrome" and this leads to all of the above problems.

By | 2016-02-21T14:32:29-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Mosses|0 Comments
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Tobacco Mosaic Virus On Tomato

It appears that your tomato plant has Virus. There are 3 virus possibility. WE have included links below. Two of the viruses are spread by aphids (sounds like the insect that you described). A third, the Tobacco Mosaic Virus, is very easily transmitted when an infected leaf rubs against a leaf of a healthy plant, by contaminated tools, and occasionally by workers whose hands become contaminated with TMV after smoking cigarettes. The "mosaic" appearance of the yellow/green tissues of the leaf, and what appears to be a "shoe-string" or ferny look is a characteristic symptom of a virus disease. Unfortunately viruses cannot be reversed or cured, however infected plants may produce edible fruit, but yield, size, and quality are reduced. Here are a few links that you might find helpful:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r783102811.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r783102611.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r783102711.html

By | 2016-02-21T13:33:09-08:00 February 21st, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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