Lipstick Plant

/Lipstick Plant/

Lipstick Plant

This appears to be a lipstick plant, but we cannot be positive without seeing it in flower. The tubular shaped flowers when in bud is encased in a purple calyx that resembles a lipstick and once the flowers emerge are typically red or orange depending on the cultivar. It is native to the rainforest. You can keep it outside in the summer in partial shade because it is triggered into flower by a warm, humid period followed by cooler temperatures. For this reason you'll see that it usually blooms in the fall into winter. Indoors, keep it in a bright window but not in strong direct sun - an eastern facing window is usually perfect in the northeast. Repot when necessary in March or April, and cut it back at that time before putting it outside again in May. Fertilize with a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for blooming container plants from April through September when it starts to bud up again. Do not spray the foliage/buds once it starts to bloom as this can mar the flowers.

By | 2016-02-23T00:24:16-08:00 February 23rd, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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French Lavender

This may be French lavender. French Lavender (Lavandula dentata) is an evergreen shrub native to Spain. It is a tender perennial hardy in zones 8a-10b. In colder climates it should be grown as a container plant so it can be sheltered in the winter. French Lavender can be distinguished from other species by its jagged or dented leaf edges. Foliage has a fuzzy appearance and is silvery-green in color. French Lavender does not have the typical smell most associate with the genus. The smell is much more delicate than what most are use to smelling. Sometimes being described as something between the typical lavender smell and rosemary. Plants will reach sizes 1-3 feet tall and up to 4 feet wide. Plants have a purple flower color and bloom early summer through fall in the landscape. When grown in a greenhouse or areas that get no frost French lavender will flower year round. Generally this species is grown for it's ornamental value rather then for it herbal qualities.

By | 2016-02-22T23:45:29-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Slipper Plant Gallito

Pedilanthus macrocarpus comes from the Sonoran Desert of northwestern Mexico, including central Baja California and Sonora. An unusual attractive slow growing succulent plant that remains mostly leafless, or with tiny, inconspicuous leaves. Instead of leaves it has erect 1/2" thick lime-green stems that rise up to 3' tall, sometimes taller in the shade, arching or bending outwards under their own weight. In mid-summer into fall (in the desert people note in spring as well) the unusual orange-red slipper-shaped flowers, which are also described as bird shaped (Gallito - Little Rooster), appear along the stems and are often followed by reddish fruit. Plant in full sun in cool coastal climates but looks best if given some light shade in hot inland climates. Requires very little irrigation even in containers where watering every 2 to 3 weeks is sufficient. Plants are hardy to short duration temperatures to the mid 20s F but do best in near frost free gardens and can suffer stem tip damage below 30 F.

By | 2016-02-22T22:40:44-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Succulents|0 Comments
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Rust Fungus On Rose

This appears to be a fungal disease called Rose Rust; its very common on roses. If you look at the underside of the affected leaves and you see orange colored fungal structures (sometimes dark brown and black structures appear when the fungus is in the reproductive stage) - it does look like rust. This fungus is spread by water, so splashing water will move it upward thru the plant. It is also favored by shade and poor air circulation. You may need to consider a fungicide if its a very bad infection, but you can reduce the spread of the spores by removing the affected leaves (without defoliating the shrub), pick the fallen leaves up and dispose of them in the trash, prune for good air circulation around/within the shrub, and grow roses in full sun. Here's more info about Rusts and Roses: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISEASES/rusts.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7465.html

By | 2016-02-22T22:33:28-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Spider Mites

This looks like it could be spider mites, and it looks like there may be a bad infestation. We've included a link so you can see what these little sap sucking spider-like organisms look like, but at this stage of damage, you may want to remove the affected leaves and treat with an appropriate pesticidal product as recommended below, or in the web link provided. For future reference, if you catch the problem before it gets too bad, you can control them by spraying with neem oil or pesticidal soap, which can be purchased at most garden centers. Be careful to read the labels and apply any of these types of products properly. Be careful to spray the undersides of the leaves, the stems, and the tops of the leaves. Repeat the application as recommended on the product label to kill any new mites that hatch from eggs afer the first application.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/spidermitescard.html

By | 2016-02-22T22:12:08-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Avocado Problem

The holes in the leaves could be attributed to a couple of things: insects and / or snails & slugs. Try to hunt for the critters after dark when they come out to feed and hand pick them off and dispose of them. You can use an organic snail bait such as Sluggo to curtail the snail & slug activity. If there is an insect problem of some type, the best thing to do would be to take this photo and a sample of the injury to your local garden center and see if they can suggest appropriate measures.
the other issue that I see is the browning of the leaves. This time of year, leaf tip burn is fairly common, and if it is due to salt burn, make sure there is adequate drainage around the tree. Avocados need excellent drainage (hillside is a good choice) and are very susceptible to root rots as well as salt burn from the alkaline tap water. Here's some helpful info: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/avocados.html.

By | 2016-02-22T21:43:28-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Plant Pests|2 Comments
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Nutrient Deficiency Azalea

This is not an infectious disease, but a nutrient deficiency which could be caused by a couple of things, mainly water stress (too much or too little) and/or the wrong soil pH range for the plant. Soil conditions can, and often do, change over a period of time; its apparently changed enough around the roots of this plant to cause the deficiency. Azalea needs an acidic soil pH, but at the very least you will want to fertilize with an acidic fertilizer; they are available at your local garden center. You will also want to make sure the soil around this plant is not particulary wet (too wet) for some reason (ie: water leak nearby, water running "down" slope,even if gradual), or too dry. You'd think the healthier looking plant would be suffering the same as this one since they are so close to each other, but this is often seen in landscapes due to variations that can and do occur in small areas. Hope this helps.

By | 2016-02-22T20:51:17-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Leaf Miner

This damage appears to be caused by a leaf miner. A small fly or moth lays its eggs beneath the surface of the leaf and when the eggs hatch, the larvae tunnel thru the leaf tissue, consuming the nutrients in the foliage. Once the damage has been done, nothing will reverse it. Chemical pesticides are not effective against this pest because most products won't penetrate thru the leaf surface although organic products containing Spinosad have often worked to prevent further infestation. If you do use Spinosad, spray in the early evening after the bees have returned to their hives. Once the spray is dry it is safe for beneficials. However, once the damage has been done to the leaf, it is not reversible. Usually the damage done by these insects is not going to kill the plant unless the damage is extensive. Suggest you confirm the problem with a horticulturist at your local garden center and control recommendations.

By | 2016-02-22T17:51:40-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Chewing Insect

The problem may be chewing insects rather than sucking insects. Perhaps some type of beetle or caterpillar? But without seeing the actual pest, we can't say for sure. Look to see if you see any sign of insects- top and bottom of leaves, day and at night with a flashlight. If there are small black dots, these might be excretions for the insects. You can spray with an organic control effective against chewing insects such as Bt (caterpillars). insecticidal soap or Spinosad. Once the leaves and flowers are damaged, they will not recover but try to control future infestation. Bt is a contact insecticide and Spinosad has a 7-10 day residual. Spray Spinosad in the early evening after the bees have returned to their hives. Once the spray has dried on the plant it is safe for beneficials. Suggest you show your photo or perhaps capture a few in a bottle as well as snip off a damaged frond for a local garden center to confirm their identity.

By | 2016-02-22T15:13:26-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Leaf Spot Or Fluoridechlorinesalts

This sort of leaf spot can be caused by several things and without culturing in a lab it's hard to be sure. It's also possible with plants that what you are seeing is a combination of problems. Excess build up of fluoride, chlorine or fertilizer salts in the soil is probably the cause. This commonly happens when a houseplant is watered with "city water" that has fluoride and chlorine in it over a long period, and/or when fertilizer salts have been allowed to build up in the pot. The solution for this is to repot the plant, gently removing some of the old potting mix from the roots and putting the plant back in a clean pot with new potting soil. Do not put rocks, shards or other materials in the bottom of the pot no matter where you've read that information: it's bad for plants. After that, water with distilled or well water that doesn't have fluoride or chlorine in it. Use an organic fertilizer in the future according to directions.

By | 2016-02-22T14:50:06-08:00 February 22nd, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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