Philodendron Problem

/Philodendron Problem/

Philodendron Problem

Your Philodendron likes bright indirect light indoors and moderate water. In pots, water only when the soil feels dry down to your first knuckle. The browning/yellowing of the leaves may be due to insufficient light (try putting it by a window that gets indirect light) or a watering problem. Also do not allow the plant to sit in water as this may lead to root rot. Is your plant in a pot within a pot? If so take your plant to a sink and allow the water to drain out thoroughly before returning to the decorative pot. If it is in a pot without drainage holes, suggest you transplant in a container with drainage holes. We do not see any signs of insects, but carefully inspect not only the top of the leaves and stems but also underneath the foliage. Depending on the species and cultivar, the latex from the leaves and the stems/branches can be very irritating to the skin so be sure to wear protective gloves when handling. Also feed with a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for container house plants.

By | 2016-02-26T12:48:21-08:00 February 26th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Snail Damage

The damage on the leaves of your plant looks like snail and/or slug damage - unfortunately, almost every garden has them! But you can get control of them. First, look for the characteristic slime trails on and around your plants. Snails usually come out at night we usually don't see them feeding. Also, remove any dead or decomposing plant material. That is where they love to hide. Your best defense is to seek them out in their hiding places during the day, or trap them and destroy them/throw them out in a sealed bag. This link has great info about these pests, and very effective ideas for trapping. You may also need to alter the environment to make it less favorable for them (they like to hide in dark moist areas during the day and even on the bottom of your plant leaves). http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/invertebrates/links.otherinverts.html There is also an effective organic control formulated with iron phosphate, safe to use around children and pets.

By | 2016-02-26T12:21:45-08:00 February 26th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Kiwifruit

Your plant is showing serious nutrient related problems. Note the yellowing between the veins. This plant requires an acid soil in the pH range of 5-6.5. It is also very salt intolerant and can suffer root death. It cannot stand drought or water-logged soil. We do not know from this picture what is going on with the roots, but poor roots can also cause nutrient problems. Our compliments on your careful descriptions by the way. That always helps. The only pest on kiwifruit is the snail, which very much likes the leaves. We could find no mention of a leaf spot disease which would necrose and cause the area to drop out. We strongly advise you to take advantage of your local NC state extension offices for a hands-on appraisal. They also have the ability to do cultures for as yet uncommon problems. The service operates out of your state university and has branches in most counties. Good luck with this problem.

By | 2016-02-26T08:39:43-08:00 February 26th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments
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Gray Mold On Begonia

Gray mold on begonia plants results from a fungal infestation. The Botrytis cinerea fungus survives in previously infected plant debris as densely packed structures called sclerotia, so it is important to destroy the area that is infected. Gray mold threatens begonias throughout the active growing season and particularly in the enclosed area of the home where houseplants might be grown. As soon as you notice signs of gray mold, remove the infected plant parts. Discourage the disease by spacing begonias to provide adequate air circulation and watering them at soil level early in the day to keep the foliage as dry as possible. Low-nitrogen fertilizer applied weekly at one-quarter strength keeps the plants vigorous without overly stimulating mold-enticing, tender new growth. During cool, humid weather, chlorophyll or mancozeb fungicide applications spaced 10 days apart protect healthy begonias from gray mold attacks.

By | 2016-02-26T03:42:08-08:00 February 26th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Fasciation Of Lily

This appears to us to be a fasciated stem of either a lily or an alstroemeria. Was this from a florist bouquet? It looks like an example of fasciation, which occurs in many plants randomly. Although we've put it in the category of "disease" on this form it is not - it's a physiological disorder. In fact, there is no one clear reason why some plants become fasciated although it's thought that chemicals, mechanical damage, bacteria, viruses, phytoplasmas, or feeding by insects can all trigger this odd growth. On florist flowers the suspect is often over-application of chemicals used in that industry. Fasciation doesn't spread from plant to plant and there is not any reliable way to promote it, so it's not possible to "breed" a group of plants that always have interesting odd growth. Sometimes fasciated plants are really ugly and over-distorted, while other times the growth is humorous and cool looking.

By | 2016-02-26T02:36:41-08:00 February 26th, 2016|Plant Diseases|1 Comment
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Weed Or Wildflower

Unfortunately all of our advisors studied your photo and no one could identify it definitively for you. There is a fine line between a native wildflower/plant or an offspring of a cultivated plant and a weed. If it appeared suddenly amidst your cultivated plants, the chances are good that it is a weed/wildflower. There are many different weeds/wildflowers, but if it is not competing with your established plants, then leave it be if you like it. And if it is competing, then pull it out before it gets established, especially if the seed heads are allowed to mature and disperse. If you did not plant it, chances are good that it has been planted by the wind or a bird and will soon compete with your cultivated plants. Suggest you show your photo and some of the clippings to a local garden centre/botanical garden to see if they can identify further for you. If you do find out, please let us know as this is how we learn as well. The buds resemble a species of a dandelion, but the foliage does not so unfortunately we are stumped.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:22-07:00 February 26th, 2016|Weeds|1 Comment
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Boston Fern Problem

Your Boston Fern needs bright indirect light (not just artificial light), regular water but do not allow it to sit in water as this may lead to root rot and a slow release fertilizer formulated for container plants. Outdoors does very well in partial to full shade, but bring indoors if winter frost or hot dry heat such as you described is common. We think the most important problem is watering - it seems it is in a pot within a pot and is sitting in water after being watered. Also, keep the plant moist but not soggy. Decrease watering to about once every 5-7 days. Do not place near a heating or air conditioning vent. Can also set up a humidity tray - a saucer filled with gravel/decorative rocks, fill with water and set the plant on top of a brick so it is not in the water - this increases the humidity by about 70% around your plant. As you know, ferns love humidity. Good luck and hope your fern perks up.

By | 2016-02-26T00:57:14-08:00 February 26th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Late Blight

This looks like tomato blight, likely late blight, at least from your photo. There are several types of blight, they may start at the top of the plant or at the bottom and work their way up. Late Blight, Phytophthora infestans, is an odd organism in that it behaves somewhat like a bacteria, but also like a fungus. It will eventually also attack the main stems and can progress very rapidly. Some splash up from the soil surface and others come in on insect feet. Sadly, there is no treatment for a plant in this condition. We suggest you dispose of this plant and its soil in the trash, not the compost bin, and start anew. The entire plant should be pulled and put in the garbage or burned. Make sure the fruit is taken too. Please get a second opinion from you local Extension office or garden center for confirmation by taking a few leaf samples in a baggy so that they can identify it in hand. We wish we had better news for you.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:22-07:00 February 25th, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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Leaf Spot On Tomato

This leaf spot could be caused by a number of things. It appears fungal, although since the damage is on the top of the plant it's possible that something landed on this plant and killed the tissue. Fungal diseases on tomatoes often appear on the lower foliage first. Did hot water from a hose hit this plant before the water cooled the sun-heated remains in the hose? Was a fertilizer liquid applied that might have splashed on the plant and burned it? Although there are a number of fungi that can be found on tomatoes the most common one in the northeast is early blight, but usually that moves from the bottom up. If you don't have other tomatoes planted you'll want to get another one since the main stem seems to be killed back on this one. When you plant a new tomato plant (or maybe you have others already?) be sure not to hit the foliage with anything if you can help it. You might also want to give any tomato you plant a good amount of space as this one was planted very close to something else. Plant tomatoes at least 2 1/2 feet from other plants.

By | 2016-02-25T14:07:32-08:00 February 25th, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
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Aphids

You'll want to get control of these pretty quickly. They don't usually kill plants, but they will excrete lots of plant sap called "honeydew"; this attracts ants and provides the perfect environment for the growth of sooty mold. This mold doesn't actually infect the plant but it will reduce the amount of sunlight that reaches the leaf cells and reduce photosynthesis, which of course will affect the plants ability to produce new leaves and fruits. We've included a link about Aphids, but at this stage you'll probably want to use a pesticidal soap; they're available at your local garden center. You'll need to follow the label directions and make sure the plants are well watered before you spray them. You'll also need to follow-up, most likely, with more sprays, but again be sure to follow the label directions for best results.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html
Scroll down to the bottom of this page and click on the Read More About Aphids link for more detailed info.

By | 2016-02-25T10:34:24-08:00 February 25th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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