Rose Issues

/Rose Issues/

Rose Issues

There are a couple of things troubling the rose in this photo. First, the yellow areas on the leaf indicate that the rose is possibly suffering from a nutrient deficiency. Probably Iron deficiency due to a high pH of the soil (alkaline - salt). There may be iron in the soil but it not available to the plant because of the pH. Second, the brown edges of the leaves looks like a salt burn or underwatering. Again, that word salt...If they are planted directly in the ground, you might want to give them a good deep watering a couple of times a week until you see improvement. If they are in a pot, you would want to water them thoroughly until the water is running out the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. You might want to start a regular fertilizer program by getting a fertilizer especially for rose plants (that includes iron) and a pH test kit for the soil. Follow all directions on the fertilizer container. You might also want to take a bagged sample like this into your local garden center for a hands on diagnosis of the problem.

By | 2016-02-28T13:14:14-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Aphids

Yes... and lots of them!! You'll want to get control of these pretty quickly. They don't usually kill plants, but they will excrete lots of plant sap called "honeydew"; this attracts ants and provides the perfect environment for the growth of sooty mold. This mold doesn't actually infect the plant but it will reduce the amount of sunlight that reaches the leaf cells and reduce photosynthesis, which of course will affect the plants ability to produce new leaves and fruits. We've included a link about Aphids, but at this stage you'll probably want to use a pesticidal soap; they're available at your local garden center. You'll need to follow the label directions and make sure the plants are well watered before you spray them. You'll also need to follow-up, most likely, with more sprays, but again be sure to follow the label directions for best results.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html
Scroll down to the bottom of this page and click on the Read More About Aphids link for more detailed info.

By | 2016-02-28T07:22:56-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Shoot Tip Die Back

This tree appears to be suffering from shoot tip die back (as far as we can see from your photo), which could be caused by several things, but is probably a problem originating at the root system. Since you mention this tree is 30 years old, do you know if it was still producing in the recent past? Citrus trees have shallow root systems and roots can easily be damaged and therefore won't be able to provide adequate water and nutrients to the tree. Has anything disturbed the roots at the drip-line recently? Another cause could be high temperatures and lack of water, or application of pesticidal products to water stressed trees. Because there are potentially several potential causes, we recommend you talk to the Citrus/Avo Farm Advisor at the UCCE. We've also included a link, which you are probably already familiar with, and a publication written by a respected UCCE Advisor about citrus tree cultivation.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/citrus.html
http://www.mastergardenerssandiego.org/downloads/citrus%20for%20home%20garden.pdf

By | 2016-02-28T05:03:12-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Curling Yucca Leaves

Your plant appears to be a Yucca elephantipes, and is it possibly a recent cutting? Yucca cuttings should have at least a week to dry off before planting. During the time the cutting is developing roots it is not unusual for the leaves to curl as there are no roots bringing water up into the plant. Your soil looks wet. I would suggest two things. First choice, don't water again until the soil has gone almost completely dry, and then water. This might be enough to get the roots working provided they haven't suffered a severe rot. Second, remove the plant from the soil and hose off the root end clean. Give it a week to ten days to just lay around out of direct sun and then plant it up in a new, fresh, well draining soil mix. Give it a good drink and don't water again until the soil is almost dry. This will hopefully have started some new healthy roots. You may still see some leaf curl but it should stop with the new leaves that come out of the center as it starts growing.

By | 2016-02-28T04:40:08-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Succulents|1 Comment
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Onion Maggot

Onion Maggot – (Delia antiqua) is the most serious insect pest in onions. Onion maggots damage both the roots and more importantly the bulbs of onion, radishes and garlic. Most root maggot adults are attracted to rotting organic matter; avoid incorporating animal manure or green manure in spring. When possible, delay planting susceptible plants until the threat of root maggots is reduced, which is generally after June 1st.

It is important to remove host plants in the fall, including their roots, and destroy them which kill the overwintering pupae. This practice also helps to expose over-wintering pupae to predators and cause them to dry out. Onion maggots cause the greatest damage in their first larval stage, which occurs when the plants are very young. The maggot over-winters in the soil.

Control includes: disposing of cull piles or volunteer onions. Second and third generation onion maggots prefer injured or dying tissue. Avoid damaging or bruising any of the crop during harvest

By | 2016-02-27T23:22:20-08:00 February 27th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Winter Damage On Holly

This is classic winter damage. It usually happens as a combination of cold temperatures, wind and sun reflected off of the snow. The plant might recover, so wait at least a month to see what happens. The holly will drop all the burned leaves (you can already see that it's doing this) and there may be some die-back on the top branches. Wait until mid-May to do any pruning. At that point you'll see new growth from the stems that are still alive. Prune off any stems that are still brown in mid-May.

It would be a good idea to remove the lawn in a circle around this plant, and apply a layer of composted manure and a light application of an organic fertilizer. This will also make it easier to mow the grass around this holly. An inch of mulch over that compost will help keep the water in over the summer while the holly recovers. Next fall, in October, spray the plants with an anti-dessicant product to help protect the leaves.

By | 2016-02-27T22:38:25-08:00 February 27th, 2016|Shrubs|17 Comments
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Green Beans

There area couple of issues here. First, chewing insects are decimating the leaves. Possibly grasshoppers or earwigs? And secondly, the white spots can be caused by several different pests: aphids, leafhoppers or spider mites.

Leafhoppers are green, brown, or yellow bugs to ⅓-inch long with wedge-shaped wings. They jump sideways and suck the juices from plants. Use insecticidal soap. Cover plants with floating row covers to exclude bugs; spray with insecticidal soap.

Spider mites or aphids suck plant juices causing stippling. Top of leaves speckled or stippled white or yellow; fine gray webbing on undersides of leaves; leaves eventually turn pale green, yellow then brown. Keep plants well watered. Wash mites off leaves with spray of water or use insecticidal soap. Ladybugs and lacewings eat mites.

It looks like you have drip irrigation? That's good because some damage can be done by overhead watering on a hot day. With the drip, you won't have to re-apply the insecticidal soap as often.

By | 2016-02-27T21:44:31-08:00 February 27th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Tillandsia Ionantha Air Plant

Native to Costa Rica and Mexico, a very popular and easy to grow species. The entire top of the plant blushes a bright red when in bloom. Individual flowers are a violet tube. Plants are 1"-2" tall when not in bloom. Your plant needs to be watered regularly, at least 2 to 3 times per week. Misting is generally not sufficient. The easiest way to do this is to actually immerse the whole plant in the sink or a bucket if possible, if not, use a hose or the kitchen faucet to totally wet your plant. Your plant will also appreciate a good soaking for several hours every one to two weeks. Give your plant as bright a light as you can. Partial sun for an hour or so in the morning or evening should be okay, but you should avoid all day direct sun. Most will survive a light frost and will have some leaf damage, but should still produce pups for you. A frost for more than a few hours will kill your plant.

By | 2016-02-27T21:42:17-08:00 February 27th, 2016|Tropical Plants|0 Comments
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Variegated Corn Cob Euphorbia

Native to South Africa, forms an erect club-shaped stem with squarish tubercles in rows resembling "corn cobs". Branches freely with lateral "club-shaped" offsets. Stems have pinkish-brown persistent thorns that become purplish red with age. Responds well to warmth, with its active growth period in the late spring and summer months. Needs porous soil with adequate drainage. Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch during active growing season. Requires bright light for best appearance, and should be given a winter resting period at which time less water should be given. Protect from frost. All Euphorbias contain a white sap that can be irritating to eyes and mucous membranes. If contact is made with this white sap, take care to not touch face or eyes before washing hands with soap and water. The normal form is green. This variegated form shows off shades of pink, white and green all blended together.

By | 2016-02-27T19:44:47-08:00 February 27th, 2016|Succulents|2 Comments
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Hens And Chicks House Leeks

European in origin and are mostly hardy to Zone 4. Sempervivum is a succulent evergreen perennial rosette with an outstanding ability to survive cold and dryness. The plants have a noticeable progression of color changes throughout the year, and are monocarpic. This means each "mother" rosette will flower and die, but they normally produce several generations of "chicks" before that happens. There are approximately 40 known species and they all apparently are capable of easily crossbreeding (hybridizing) with each other. This ability and including natural mutations and variations within the species has resulted in well over 3,000 varieties! Well draining soil is a must as they will not tolerate roots sitting in water for any length of time. They need full to part sun, and in areas where extreme summer temperatures are experienced, some light shade is beneficial during the hottest part of the day. Water thoroughly when you do, and don't water again until the soil has become fairly dry.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:22-07:00 February 27th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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