Willow Aster

/Willow Aster/

Willow Aster

We may have found your rock garden "thug." It looks similar to a native aster called Willow Aster or White Panicle Aster. Here's a link so you can compare your live plant to this image. You'll need to scroll down the page a little to find it - http://wildflowersofcolorado.com/html/pg__7_white.html

Asters, even hybrid, tame ones, can form large clumps and take over garden beds. Some varieties spread by root and seed. We can't find any scientific data on how yours spreads but based on your war with this weed, it's probably root and seed. You'll want to make sure they don't bloom and seed in your rock garden. In addition to hand pulling, if you have a large clump you could try using a broadleaf herbicide which kills the plant and root. Broadleaf herbicides, however, will kill anything with broad leaves so proceed with caution! Let us know if the picture doesn't match your plant by sending us another photo of it in the garden. We'll gladly try again!

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:22-07:00 February 28th, 2016|Weeds|0 Comments
Read More

Sodium Toxicity

This is exhibiting classic symptoms of Sodium toxicity. It could be caused by inadequate drainage, overfertilizing, or underwatering. There also could be excessive amounts of sodium in the water that you use to irrigate the tree. The tree looks like it might be salvageable. Our advice would be to invest in a larger container with drainage holes and brand new potting soil and replant. Relocate in full sun. You could also find a nice well drained spot in full sun in your yard and plant it directly in the ground if you wanted. Trim back the tree by 1/3 (if there is still green when you scratch the bark, that is a good sign). Water it in well but give it time in between waterings. It doesn't want to be too wet. Once it seems to have settled and starts putting out some new leaves, consider investing in a fertilizer specifically formulated for citrus that also contains micronutrients. Follow the directions on the label. Don't be too heavy handed in the beginning. More is not better this case.

By | 2016-02-28T23:47:14-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
Read More

Damage From Thrips

Sap sucking insects called Thrips (singular or plural) have been, and probably still are (in the new growth), feeding on your plant. The damage we see in your photo is severe, and characteristic of the damage these tiny insects cause when they occur in high numbers. Unfortunately, they have destroyed your plant and it will not likely recover, even from pruning the damaged tissues, or elimination of the Thrips. In addition, if you prune with Thrips insects present they will feed on the new growth that develops after pruning. We suggest you remove and destroy, or dispose of this plant in a sealed bag, and if you have other plants near this one, inspect them for Thrips and treat accordingly before bringing a new plant like this one home. Please see these links for more information:
http://zsi.gov.in/Cop-11/animal/THYSANOPTERA.pdf
http://www.pestcontrolindia.com/know-your-pest/pest/insect-agricultural-pests-chili-thrips-13-21-130.aspx

By | 2016-02-28T22:17:22-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Orange Tree

Your tree is an orange tree. Citrus trees look a lot alike in photos so telling exactly which type would be very difficult from this photo. There are several possibilities. If the fruit is bitter and seedy then the plant is probably a sour orange, basically planted as such, or more likely root stock grown from a damaged orange. If the fruit is round and sweet it is probably a type of sweet orange, of which there are many, but the two most popular are Valencia and Navel. The end of a navel is so named because it resembles a navel. If the fruit is flattened, it may be a mandarin type orange, which include satsumas and tangerines. If it is a mandarin type orange the peel will pull away easily from the fruit, that is it will be very easy to peel . If it is hard to peel then it is probably not a mandarin type orange. Does best in full sun, regular water and feed with a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for citrus.

By | 2016-02-28T21:03:56-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments
Read More

Leaf Spot On Cherry

Thanks for this note but we're not sure which adviser you thought was getting this, so know that your personal wishes and comments about the NYT article haven't reached their intended target. There are six people who review and answer garden questions in the Northeast.

It's common for fruit trees to bear one year and not the next. This is a strategy that most fruit and nut trees develop that insures that in heavy-bearing years there are fruits and nuts left on the ground to sprout and grow. So know that this is normal.

If you put up Japanese beetle traps, put them on the lot next door since these traps attract more beetles to a property than they catch. Better yet put them a half a block away!

You have leaf spot on your cherry trees - a common problem this summer when night temps have been cool. Next year you might consider spraying with Actinovate or another organic fungicide in May, and again as the label directs.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:22-07:00 February 28th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
Read More

Downy Mildew On Spinach

This isn't an insect but is probably a disease. Spinach is prone to downy mildew and it's the most common disease on spinach. Although it usually shows the white growth on the underside of leaves, it's sometimes also seen on top of the plants as your photo shows. Without culturing a disease situation in a lab it's impossible to be 100% sure, of course, but knowing that downy mildew is a common problem on spinach in California we feel secure that this is most likely what you have.

Unfortunately there is no cure. If this is indeed downy mildew the leaves will also develop yellow spots or become distorted and rather sick looking. Sometimes the underside of the leaves turns dirty looking. You might want to grow a different type of green for awhile and let the downy mildew spores die out. Plant spinach further apart in the future to allow for good air circulation. You can read more about this problem here: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r732100111.html

By | 2016-02-28T20:31:27-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
Read More

Tomato Blossom End Rot

This is a physiological disorder common to tomatoes and peppers in particular. It is the result of a calcium imbalance in the plant, often brought on be erratic watering or temperature fluctuations, but occasionally by an actual lack of calcium in the soil. Hard pruning can make it worse as can overuse of nitrogen-rich fertilizer. You can add calcium as a spray (available at your local garden center), for future developing tomatoes. Harvest and cut off the affected fruit as a green tomato as it will likely rot from here on. Or you can wait to see if the affected fruit ripens. If it does, the fruit is edible except for the hard brownish part of the blossom end rot. Just cut around it. Once the blossom end rot occurs on your fruit it cannot be reversed. For future developing tomatoes, be sure to keep your tomatoes evenly watered, but not soggy and feed with a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for tomatoes. Here is a link that you might find helpful: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/tomato.html

By | 2016-02-28T20:16:54-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Vegetable Plants|0 Comments
Read More

Not Enough Water

It is never appropriate to give a plant a set amount of water at a set interval. You need to water the entire volume of soil in the pot in order to encourage root growth throught the pot. If you only give a little water, many roots will die. Plants' water needs change with the season as temperature, humidity, and number of daylight hours vary. The same plant may need water every 5 days in summer and every 8 days in winter. To correct your problem, water your plant. Until water comes out the bottom of the pot. (If you don't have a drainage hole in your pot, transplant your houseplant to a container that does.) Don't let the pot sit in water or this may cause root rot. You'll have to pour off the extra water if there's more than a half inch in the saucer so it's better to water slowly so you don't have too much overflow. Water whenever the soil surface feels dry to the touch. good luck!

By | 2016-02-28T19:57:29-08:00 February 28th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
Read More

Hydrangea Problem

Hydrangeas do best in partial shade (and may burn if receiving high heat or light intensity, and/or having heat and excess light reflected off a wall or fence) in your area, and they require regular water, but with good draining soil. Ground soils in your area tend to be high in clay content which holds lots of water but does not drain well. If you did not amend the soil well by mixing in organic matter, or the hole around the root zone is hard-packed, plants may begin to wilt in response to too much water. We recommend you dig up a handful of soil to check for moisture, or use a moisture meter (can be purchased at your local garden center). Also make sure that mulch is not in contact with the plant stem; mulch should be kept 3-4 inches away from the stem of the plant to avoid stem/crown rot issues. These plants also perform better in acidic soil conditions, which are not likely in your area. We recommend you fertilize with an acid fertilizer when the plants recover from the current condition(s).

By | 2016-02-28T19:56:22-08:00 February 28th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
Read More

Beetles In Canada

We're not sure this is a "pest", and we're sorry to say we can't ID this insect to species, but we can tell you its definately a Beetle. There are many thousands of Beetles in the insect order called Coleoptera, and many families and species included in that order. Some of these insects are pests and some are "good" bugs in that they will eat some of the other insects that cause damage to plants. We narrowed our investigation down to those that are common to Canada and found the following link. We hope this will be of interest to you. Otherwise, if you are concerned that this particular species may be causing damage to your plants, or is a common house pest, we suggest you take it to a local garden center or other knowledgeable person in your area. If this beetle species is not giving you any trouble, you may just enjoy learning about them, in general.
http://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.ca/en/article/beetle/

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:22-07:00 February 28th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More