Lesser Celandine

/Lesser Celandine/

Lesser Celandine

This is a plant called lesser celandine, or fig buttercup. The botanic name used to be Ranunculus ficaria, and you'll still see it listed as such in several sources. The plant is found throughout Europe and west Asia and is now introduced in North America, where it is considered invasive in several states. Although it dies back when the weather warms, since it emerges so early it has an advantage over other plants and will choke out things in your garden as well as native wildflowers. If you wish to remove it before it takes over your entire yard, dig with a shovel so that you get the tuber-roots, and place it in garbage bags in the sun for many days to dry it before sending it out with the garbage or burning it. Many choose to use an herbicide on this pest that will kill the roots as well as the foliage and if you want to go that route go to your local garden center for product recommendations. Read more about this plant here: http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/fact/rafi1.htm

By | 2016-03-02T14:49:38-08:00 March 2nd, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Miscanthus Blight

Miscanthus can be affected by a number of different leaf spotting fungi. One of the more noticeable is Miscanthus Blight, caused by the fungus Stagonospora. You will see purplish or rust colored spots and streaks on the leaves, especially the white sections of the variegated leaves. From a distance, with its rusty appearance, it is often mistaken for a rust disease. Treat the plant by cutting the diseased foliage out and completely remove it from the garden. Do not put it in a compost pile as that will spread the fungus through your garden. It's unlikely this disease will affect anything in the vegetable garden, but no sense keeping spores anywhere nearby. Do not divide and transplant the grasses in the fall. If this turns out to be an ongoing problem, you don't want to help spread it to new areas. See how the grass does next year. If we have a dry season you may not see the problem recur.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:22-07:00 March 2nd, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Ginseng Ficus Bonsai

Its form resembles the Ficus genus, possibly F. microcarpa also known as F. retusa. Ficus are known for their dramatic roots that survive above ground resembling bulbous structures. It makes an ideal houseplant/bonsai provided there is bright indirect light, regular water, and a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for container plants. Make sure the plant does not sit in water because this may lead to root rot. Feed with a water soluble organic or slow-release fertilizer formulated for container plants at 1/2 the recommended dilution rate during its growth cycle. Again, make sure the container has adequate drainage and allow to drain out completely, but do not allow it to sit in water. Also be aware that most Ficus do not like their locations changed and will show their displeasure by dropping its leaves. Once you find a good site with bright, indirect light and it is thriving, try to keep it there.

By | 2016-03-02T06:56:12-08:00 March 2nd, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Leaf Spot

"Leaf spot" is a common descriptive term applied to a number of diseases affecting the foliage of ornamental shrubs and trees. The majority of leaf spots are caused by fungi, but some are caused by bacteria. Leaf spots on trees are very common and generally do not require spraying. Leaf spot may result in some defoliation of a plant. An established plant can tolerate almost complete defoliation if it happens late in the season or not every year. Small or newly planted trees that become defoliated are more at risk of suffering damage until they become established. Here is a link that might be helpful:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/englishlaurel.html
You might want to consider pruning out and properly disposing of affected plant parts to give the plant a fresh start. You might want to consider treating with a fungicide as the new growth appears. Or you may want to consider replacing the plant.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:22-07:00 March 2nd, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Pink Nymph

'Pink Nymph' is a hybrid form created by crossing the closely related Mammillaria elongata and Mammillaria microhelia. 'Pink Nymph' is intermediate to the two species, with the silvery spines and pink flowers of the Mammillaria microhelia. The more slender body shape is like Mammillaria elongata. This hybrid was the first "elongata-like" plant with lovely pink flowers, rather than the typical yellow flowers. Flowers throughout late winter and spring. Mammillaria elongata, in habitat, lives in crags between rocky outcroppings in Central Mexico, eventually forming long cascades of stems with pendant offsets. In this habitat, the water drains quickly away from the roots of the plant, never allowing the plant to remain waterlogged. For this reason, it is essential in cultivation to use a very porous soil, which will allow quick drainage. Prefers bright light with ample airflow. Mammillarias prefer bright, slightly diffuse light. Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch. Protect from frost.

By | 2016-03-02T04:34:57-08:00 March 2nd, 2016|Succulents|2 Comments
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Alder Buckthorn Glossy Buckthorn

Alder Buckthorn was sold regularly at nurseries as a garden shrub and hedge. This shrub or small tree reaches heights up to 20 feet. However, it has limited decorative qualities without conspicuous flowers or bold foliage. While it was brought over from Europe with good intentions about 200 years ago, this shrub is enormously invasive. All exotic buckthorns produce a fruit that is eaten by birds and other animals. However, the severe laxative effect of these fruits forces fast distribution of the seeds. These shrubs also aggressively resprout from cut or damaged stems. This shrub is invading Midwestern and Northeastern forests and devastating the native plants and shrubs because of the berry / bird association. Environmentally speaking, it would be proactive to remove these shrubs and replace them with something that might better attract pollinators or wildlife without leaving a devastating invasion.

By | 2016-03-02T01:37:26-08:00 March 2nd, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Triming Ficus

Many species of grass do best with an annual trimming to rejuvenate the plant and remove any dead foliage and flowers. Mexican feather grass is one that definitely does best with a trim. The proper way to do it is using hand pruners or shears and cut almost all the way to the soil line leaving only an inch above ground. Depending on the number of plants it can be time consuming, but only needs to be done once a year. You cannot trim them back too far, but can trim not far enough. Closer to the ground is better. This may seem drastic and too hard, but I assure you this is by far the best way and will quickly come back looking much better. Within just a week new foliage will be pushing up fast and replace the old growth. You will be pleasantly rewarded in trimming them this way and will look like new plants surprisingly fast. This is a good time to add a little fertilizer and provide a deep watering to promote faster bounce back. This is a common horticultural technique for rejuvenating grasses.

By | 2016-03-01T21:45:01-08:00 March 1st, 2016|Grasses|0 Comments
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Cactus Failure

You've got pretty much a terminal case. The long skinniness of the plant tells that the plant has had way too little light or sun. It is stretching and doesn't even look like what it should. By looking at the size of the plant, I'm guessing that it was in a smaller pot - it still should be. The size of the pot you moved it into is way too big. It is holding a large volume of soil that when it gets wet, it stays wet a long time as the cactus has a relatively small root system - it could in no way take up all that water. When cactus roots stay wet for any length of time they are subject to rot. Also, when you transplanted it you probably watered it in right away. When transplanting cacti or succulents they should sit in the new dry soil for about 5-7 days. This allows any roots that got broken or damaged during transplant a chance to callus over and heal. Watering right away allows fungus and bacteria into the damaged roots and then the problems begin.

By | 2016-03-01T19:55:25-08:00 March 1st, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Olive Tree

I've been thinking more about your Olive trees, because honestly I wasn't satisfied that the reponse I gave you would be helpful... something else was on the tip of my tongue and I finally got it! Unfortunately, this may not be good news. In the recent past few years, Xylella fastidiosa (Xf), a different strain (but related) of the bacterium that causes leaf scorch on grapes is infecting Olive trees; they're calling it OLSD, or Olive Leaf Scorch Disease. It is also vectored from plant to plant by leaf hoppers (pretty sure its the glassy winged sharp shooter just like with grapes). You may want to get an opinon from the Ag Dept Pathologist by taking a sealed bag with leaf & stem samples to their office in San Marcos, CA (off of Twin Oaks Valley Rd). They will check out your specimen for free. You could also call and talk to the Farm Advisor at the University of CA Cooperative Extension in S.D. for more info. If you do an internet search you'll find more info about OLSD. http://www.sdcounty.ca.gov/fha/programs.html

By | 2016-03-01T19:47:22-08:00 March 1st, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Paint Brush

Your lovely plant is likely H. albiflos, native to South Africa and is an evergreen, bulbous type plant with smooth, strap-shaped leaves and umbels of white "flowers" (stamens) that have yellow tipped anthers. Flowers are followed by red berries. Provide dappled shade and regular to moderate water once established. Indoors where the autumn an winter months are prone to frost outdoors, place in an area that receives bright, indirect light, rotate the pot regularly so that it receives an even amount of light and water when the soil feels dry down to the first knuckle. Hopefully the container has drainage holes - water in the sink allowing the water to drain out completely before returning to a cover decorative pot or saucer. Do not allow plant to sit in water as this may lead to root rot. Feed with a slow-release or organic fertilizer formulated for container plants during its grown and "bloom" cycles.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:22-07:00 March 1st, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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