Blackhaw

/Blackhaw/

Blackhaw

We think this may be a Black haw is usually grown as a large, upright, multi-stemmed, deciduous shrub with an irregular crown, but it also may be grown as a small, single trunk tree. As a shrub, it typically grows 12-15' tall with a spread of 6-12', but as a tree may reach a height of 30'. Non-fragrant white flowers in flat-topped cymes (to 4.5" diameter) appear in spring. Flowers give way in autumn to blue-black, berry-like drupes which often persist into winter and are quite attractive to birds and wildlife. Ovate, finely toothed, glossy dark green leaves (to 4" long) turn attractive shades of red and purple in fall.

Common name refers to the purported similarity of this plant to hawthorns (sometimes commonly called red haws), though hawthorns are in a different family.

We are not 100% certain of the leaf size, and how that matches up.

Also, here's a note from one of the botanists: if there are small tufts at the bottom of the fruit, it is a haw berry or a rose. No small tufts = cherries and plums.

By | 2016-03-06T02:41:57-08:00 March 6th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
Read More

Splitleaf Philodendron

This appears to be the juvenile foliage of the plant known as Split-leaf Philodendron. It is grown as a house plant most places, this survives outside in areas that are virtually frost free. In the wild, this epiphyte can grow 65 feet tall. Indoors provide bright, indirect light, regular water and feed with a slow-release fertilizer or organic food formulated for container houseplants. Do not allow plant to sit in water as this may lead to root rot. Give it something to lean against or brace itself on for the best display in a pot. It has aerial roots which can be trained onto a support or inserted in the soil. When roots begin coming out the bottom, it will need to be re-potted into the next size larger pot. By "next size larger" we mean a pot that is about two inches wider in diameter and deeper. Put it outside in the summer for best growth (in a sheltered spot!) but acclimate to higher light levels gradually or will sunburn.. The leaves begin heart shaped and split as they mature, but won't do so if it doesn't get enough light.

By | 2016-03-06T02:00:58-08:00 March 6th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
Read More

Aphids

Without a close-up of the insects, but based on the numbers, congregation, and color of them, these are Aphids. These small sap-sucking insects reproduce very rapidly. You will note larger and smaller ones. The larger ones are the females. They are born pregnant as are all their daughters. These insects are "farmed" by ants, so if you see ants on the plant around them, you'll want to control the ants too. The ants protect the aphids from their natural enemies (like ladybeetles and other predatory insects) and eat their sticky honeydew secretions. Aphids may be controlled with hard water sprays to knock them off, and insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils. We've included a web link with more info to help you control the Aphids (and any ants). Use caution and always follow the label directions when using any kind of pesticidal product.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/aphidscard.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7411.html
(scroll down to the section on Trees and Shrubs for control of Ants on plants)

By | 2016-03-06T00:57:13-08:00 March 6th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Spider Mites

The most likely cause of damage that looks like this on many plants is spider mites. They are sucking insects and cause white mottled stippling on the top of the foliage when a plant is typically stressed. These critters aren't really spiders although they are related to them. They are very hard to see, but the underside of infested foliage often looks dusty, sticky, and vaguely web-like and dirty. You can read more about spider mites and how to control them here: http://bit.ly/1pJ46WX You can also go to your local garden center and ask for an organic or other recommended control for spider mites that is appropriate for your plant and then use the product according to directions. If you don't see the stippling on the tops of the leaves, it is possible it is just normal coloring, but spider mites are very common on houseplants that have been subjected to the dry indoor air of a northern winter.

By | 2016-03-05T21:08:39-08:00 March 5th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Azalea Care

If kept in a container, it does very well on a semi-shaded patio or veranda or under the sheltered canopy of a tree, especially if it is deciduous tree since in winter the azalea will receive more sun but in spring-fall will have the filtered light. If planted directly in the ground, it needs well-draining, acid soil planted under a tree with deep roots because azaleas are shallow-rooted and cannot compete with a shallow-rooted tree. Your garden center will be able to help with proper selections and site selections. Just remember that most azaleas thrive in dappled rather than full shade and mulch around the base of the azalea to conserve moisture and to protect its shallow roots from hot, dry weather. And when you do mulch, do not apply directly up against the trunk of the plant as this may lead to disease and insect problems. As mentioned in an earlier identification feed with an acid fertilizer and make sure the selected tree also thrives with acid food.

By | 2016-03-05T21:01:15-08:00 March 5th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
Read More

Leaf Miner

This damage appears to be caused by a leaf miner. A small fly or moth lays its eggs beneath the surface of the leaf and when the eggs hatch, the larvae tunnel thru the leaf tissue, consuming the nutrients in the foliage. Once the damage has been done, nothing will reverse it. Chemical pesticides are not effective against this pest because most products won't penetrate thru the leaf surface and contact the pest. Once the damage has been done to the leaf, it is not reversible. Usually the damage done by these insects is not going to kill the plant unless the infestation is extensive. Suggest you confirm the problem with your horticulturist at a local garden center and if it is leaf miner damage, an organic control containing Spinosad is effective against leaf miners, but spray in the early evening after the bees have returned to their hives. Once the spray has dried it is safe for beneficial insects and has a 7-10 day residual.

By | 2016-03-05T20:39:08-08:00 March 5th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
Read More

Beefsteak Begonia

Although we have it categorized as a house plant, it makes an excellent shade house plant outdoors in areas that don't freeze. For lighting, it prefers bright shade. Strong light, especially during summer months can scorch the tender leaves. When you water, go slightly on the dry side. Beefsteak Begonias grow from a very succulent, water storing rhizome which will rot if it stays too wet. Let the potting mix dry out pretty well between waterings. You will likely notice that the leaves take on a grayish cast when the plant needs water. If the plant goes too long without water and wilts, it will usually come right back if you water it right away. Fertilize your Beefsteak Begonia regularly but carefully. The fertilizer salts can be harmful to the plant’s roots if they are applied to strongly. Standard houseplant fertilizer will do when applied at the rate and frequency indicated on the packaging.

By | 2016-03-05T20:33:01-08:00 March 5th, 2016|House Plants|4 Comments
Read More

Winter Damage On Hydrangea

This is winter damage. At this point any of the canes that don't have leaves will not form them so you should prune those out by cutting them all the way down to close to the ground, or to just above the first set of leaves you come to from the top down. Cut off those tiny buds that everyone is tempted to leave "because there's still some green on them...maybe they'll still open up?" They won't open up. If a bud hasn't opened and started to grow by now it's toasted. Cutting the short, old stubby canes that are dead away from these plants (down to the ground) will help the plant to look better and the new growth from the bottom won't have to fight the old, dead sticks. Also the plant won't be so much of a "leaf catcher." Leave any stem that has a growing bud because those will produce your flowers for this summer. Read more about pruning hydrangeas, and download a pdf about pruning this type of hydrangea, here: http://www.gardenlady.com/read-articles/how-to-prune-hydrangeas/

By | 2016-03-05T11:40:02-08:00 March 5th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
Read More

Curlycup Gumweed

Annual, biennial, native, to 3 feet tall, with 1 to several branched stems. Grows from a taproot, branching above. Starts growth in early spring, flowers July to August, reproduces from seeds.Leaves are gummy.

Favors dry areas, but grows on moist soils that lack other vegetation. It is most common in dry prairies, waste places, roadsides, railroads, depleted rangelands, and abandoned croplands. It often forms almost pure stands. It is found at elevations from 3,000 to 8,000 feet. Curlycup gumweed increases under drought conditions.Associated Species: Rubber rabbitbrush, big sagebrush, western wheatgrass, and associated roadside weeds.

Curlycup gumweed is unpalatable to cattle, sheep, and horses, though sheep will occasionally crop flower heads in the absence of other forage. Tannins, volatile oils, resins, bitter alkaloids, and glucosides give it an unpleasant taste. If curlycup gumweed is consumed, it may lead to poisoning due to the selenium the plant can accumulate. It is resistant to grazing and drought.

By | 2017-10-08T01:37:26-07:00 March 5th, 2016|Weeds|0 Comments
Read More

Growing Basil

We've included a link all about Basil for your reference. In this photo the basil looks nutrient deficient which could be caused by unhealthy roots, which are caused by too much water or not enough water. We noticed that you've left the peat pot around the root ball, which is okay for some plants, but it also holds alot of water and takes time to breakdown so the root system can grow into the soil/planter box. We think its just too wet for the basil roots, so we suggest you cut back on the water and maybe even remove the plant from the soil, take off the peat pot and replant. You can fertilizer with a slow release product available at your local garden center. Also keep the flowers cut back so the plant will continue to produce leaves. You might consider putting the basil in its own pot (about a 6inch size pot if you buy the 4inch from the store) so you can water it according to its needs instead of with the other plants.
http://bonnieplants.com/growing/growing-basil/

By | 2016-03-05T09:32:47-08:00 March 5th, 2016|Herbs|0 Comments
Read More