Bonsai Problem

/Bonsai Problem/

Bonsai Problem

Difficult to tell for sure, but it could be the result of being indoors, or if recently transplanted, suffering from transplant shock, or allowed to dry out. Bonsai specimen are outdoor plants and cannot tolerate the low light conditions indoors for very long. Even with bright indoor light, it is not the same as being out doors. Most bonsai are grown in lath houses. Fertilize with a slow release food recommended for bonsai plants and find a nice outdoor area with filtered light and then be ready to water---they dry out so fast. For more information and confirmation of the problem, consult a bonsai society in your area such as : Bonsai clubs in the United Kingdom (UK) - Bonsai Empire
www.bonsaiempire.com/origin/bonsai-clubs/uk
or local garden centre that specializes in bonsai.We are concerned that the problem seems to be from the interior of the plant and this could also indicate a disease, but very difficult to ascertain from a photograph. It would be best if the problem could be confirmed in hand.

By | 2016-03-11T03:02:15-08:00 March 11th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Spring Cactus Easter Cactus

Rhipsalidopsis are commonly known as Easter Cacti or Spring Cacti as they typically flower during April and May, and has reddish-orange flowers. Often confused with Christmas Cacti or Schlumbergera, they are, in fact, similar in appearance but have very different flowers. The soil should be very porous, lightweight and slightly acidic. Slightly acidity can be provided by addition of peat moss or leaf mold. Plants must have good air circulation. Water thoroughly when soil becomes dry to the touch, but make sure water drains away rapidly. Soils that do not drain well and remain sodden for days or weeks will smother the root systems and encourage certain root diseases. Rhipsalidopsis thrive in temperatures between 70 and 80°F. Plants are happiest when night temperatures are between 55 and 65°F. Excellent as a hanging basket indoors in bright, airy spot or on a sheltered patio in temperate areas.

By | 2016-03-11T02:41:47-08:00 March 11th, 2016|Succulents|0 Comments
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Ficus Benjamina

The leaf structure resembles a F. benjamina. If you snip off one of the leaves and it exudes a milky sap, this is another characteristic typical of Ficus. Wear protective gloves, however, because the sap can irritate your skin. It is a popular houseplant. Growers often braid multiple trunks together. Ficus need bright indirect light, regular water, and a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for container plants. Make sure the plant does not sit in water because this may lead to root rot. Ficus benjamina are particularly sensitive to changes in location and will show its displeasure by dropping all of its leaves. Find a good spot with bright indirect light and allow it to adjust to that location. Ficus also dislike cold or hot drafts, so do not place near an air conditioning or heating vent. Because of its sap, keep away from small children and pets. Here is another resource for you:
Plant Safety - About Kids Health
www.aboutkidshealth.ca/En/HealthAZ/.../Poisoning/.../Plant-safety.aspx‎

By | 2016-03-10T22:38:42-08:00 March 10th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Berseem Fungal Problem

We are not professional pathologists, but cloudy days that persist over an extended period of time can lead to fungal diseases such as root rot caused by Rhizoctenia and Fusanium or stem rot caused by Scelortinia. Some cultural recommendations for Trifolium alexandrinum (berseem) include: leveling the area so there is no stagnant water, reduce irrigation during cloudy days and cutting the crop frequently to allow more light into the ground. We suggest you contact a horticulturist familiar with cover/forage crops such as berseem at an agricultural university such as Institute of Agricultural Sciences - University of the Punjab
pu.edu.pk/home/department/53/Institute-of-Agricultural-Sciences‎ or a local department of agriculture for confirmation of the problem and recommended methods of control. We hope you find this information helpful, but again we are not professional pathologists and you should seek the advice of a professional.

By | 2016-03-10T22:31:46-08:00 March 10th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Powdery Mildew On Apples

The most likely cause of curling leaves on apple trees is powdery mildew. Since this isn't a closeup shot it's hard for us to be sure, but from this photo that's what it appears to be. If it's powdery mildew you should be seeing some white to grey spots or powdery-like coating on the leaves, either front or back. If you see that, you will know that this is the problem. Spraying with an organic fungicide might protect foliage that isn't too far gone at this point, but your best option will be to clean up all the leaves that fall and dispose of them (not in your compost pile) and to begin spraying with an organic fungicide or the product of your choice next season BEFORE the plant has a problem. Use according to directions. If you don't think that powdery mildew is to blame send us a few close-up shots that show both the top and bottom of two or three leaves that are in the process of curling and one of a leaf that's pretty far gone.

By | 2016-03-10T21:41:04-08:00 March 10th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Aster Daisy Family

The family of Composites include many great garden plants and - yes - many weeds with a great talent for spreading their seeds around, as your plant might do in exactly the way that dandelions do (yup, same family). They can be notoriously hard to identify even when the flower is present. However, we believe your weed is in this plant family and while it resembles the Willow Aster, we found a similar weed, the Oldfield Aster, that it may more closely resemble. You can do a google or yahoo image search to see if you weed more closely resembles this aster. Regardless of it's official name, the removal strategy is the same. Hand pulling when the soil is moist, not letting the blossoms go to seed, and considering using a broadleaf herbicide. You may want to check with a local nursery for the best herbicide options and instructions. You have a lovely garden bed - best of luck to you in managing your weedy intruder!

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:20-07:00 March 10th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Camellia Petal Blight

If it's the flower you're asking about, it's got camellia blight, a fungus that is soil-borne. During winter and spring rains, moisture splashes the soil and moves the fungus from the soil to the branches and foliage and then to the buds and opening flower petals. When and if the buds open, the petals decay and are brown and mushy. If infected buds, flowers, and leaves are left on the ground, the cycle will continue and destroy your plant’s flower production. So pick up the fallen camellia debris and dispose in the trash. Also apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the plant, leaving a 2- inch diameter around the base of the plant clear to help break the cycle. And, once flowers are spent, camellias need an acid fertilizer such as Camellia/Azalea food or cottonseed meal. Camellias do best in partial shade or filtered light and regular water. Here's more: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISEASES/campfbli.html

By | 2016-03-10T19:06:40-08:00 March 10th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Dracaena Problem

There could be one or more of several reasons why the leaves are turning brown: make sure when watering (about once every 7 days) that the soil feels dry down to the first knuckle before watering again and that the water drains out without allowing the plant to sit in water (if there is a saucer under the plant and it is sitting in the water after watering, then this may lead to root rot); feed with a slow-release or organic fertilizer formulated for container plants; the potting soil should be a well-draining commercial potting soil or cactus potting soil (sterile and well-draining); needs bright, indirect light. Finally, if the leaves continue to brown, suggest you switch to steam iron water - many houseplants come from the rainforest and are sensitive to the salts in tap water. There could also be some disease issues. Here is more info: http://www.hgtv.com/landscaping/qa-leaf-spots-on-dracaena/index.html

By | 2016-03-10T18:40:00-08:00 March 10th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Scale Insects Or Stem Canker

Sorry, but its hard to say for certain from your photo. This could be scale insects (like brown soft scale), or it could be a stem canker that has oozed sap. Looks like a scale more than canker ooze, but its hard to see from the photo if the stem underneath this "bump" is damaged, like with a canker. You can determine which it is by pulling one of the bumps off. If its sticky, like sap, then its a canker. If the bottom of the bump, when turned over, appears to have insect like characteristics (or tiny orange/brown eggs and/or little tiny crawling things) then you'll know it a scale insect. We've included a link about scales for your reference in getting them under control. For info on canker diseases you can search on-line by referencing the type of fruit tree and the word 'canker' (for example: canker diseases of stone fruits). We recommend looking for reliable info from college extension sites that end .edu
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7408.html#SOME

By | 2016-03-10T17:04:19-08:00 March 10th, 2016|Trees|0 Comments
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Rust Fungus On Rose

This appears to be a fungal disease called Rose Rust; its very common on roses. If you look at the underside of the affected leaves you'll see orange colored fungal structures (sometimes dark brown and black structures appear when the fungus is in the reproductive stage) - it does look like rust. This fungus is spread by water, so splashing water will move it upward thru the plant. It is also favored by shade and poor air circulation. You may need to consider a fungicide if its a very bad infection, but you can reduce the spread of the spores by removing the affected leaves (without defoliating the shrub), pick the fallen leaves up and dispose of them, prune for good air circulation around/within the shrub, and grow roses in full sun. Here's more info about Rusts and Roses: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/DISEASES/rusts.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7465.html

By | 2016-03-10T17:00:54-08:00 March 10th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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