Cream And Green Carpet Sedum

/Cream And Green Carpet Sedum/

Cream And Green Carpet Sedum

Native to Japan and possibly China, a tough low growing evergreen succulent to 6" tall and trailing to 2' wide with needle-like pale green leaves that have a thin creamy-white margin. The new growth on this plant is often upright and then lies down under the weight of the stems and in shade it tends to grow slightly more open and taller. When this plant flowers in the early summer, the small bright yellow starburst flowers appear just above the foliage. Plant in full to part sun in a well-drained soil and irrigate occasionally to regularly. Hardy to 0 °F. A great plant for use as a ground cover (tolerates steep slopes), for tight spots such as embedded in walls or rock gardens, in hanging baskets, tumbling over a wall or even as a house plant in a bright spot.

By | 2016-03-12T00:05:24-08:00 March 12th, 2016|Succulents|0 Comments
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Stretched Aloe Vera And Pups

That was the perfect second photo, and yes, it is Aloe Vera (botanical: Aloe barbadensis). I have just never seen one stretch for light that way. If you imagine it as a telescope that has been pulled out, that's why you are seeing those white rings and the couple of pups that are starting. If it were grown in full sun as it should be, imagine collapsing down the telescope (pushing down on the top of the plant) and making those white rings go away and each set of consecutive leaves would be stacked tightly one on top of the other - that would be normal, and the pups would come out near the base of the plant. Your best bet is to stake it to keep it from flopping around and grow it outside in full sun in all the months you don't have frost. Probably cut back on the water too, it looks pretty wet and that can add to the stretching. Usually, water well when you do, and don't water again until the soil has become quite dry, say down a couple of inches in the soil or more - you have to stick your finger in. Thanks for the follow up photo!

By | 2016-03-11T23:03:19-08:00 March 11th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Queen Of The Night Dutchmans Pipe

A large epiphytic cactus native to Mexico and Brazil. Epiphyllum oxypetalum reaches 20 feet in height. The dark green branches reach 3 feet long. This cactus lacks true leaves; its leaf-like growth is really flattened stems. Its showy blooms appear in late spring or early summer, and its white flowers are 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. This fragrant, nocturnal bloom opens in the late evening and closes again at sunrise. Plant in moist, well-draining soil. Mix two parts peat moss, one part sand and one part pine bark. Place in a site with full sunlight to partial shade exposure. The site should not be an area where temperatures fall below 35 degrees F. Water whenever the surface of the soil is dry. Reduce the amount of water given in the winter. Do not let the soil dry out all the way. Feed every month with a 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer diluted to half strength. Do not fertilize during its inactive period during the winter.

By | 2016-03-11T22:35:36-08:00 March 11th, 2016|Succulents|0 Comments
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Orchid Problem

Orchids can get powdery mildew but it is not common. The white stuff could also be rotting plant material. It appears the foliage may be sun scorched. If you have it outdoors during this warm weather, it needs to be in a shady spot and indoors it needs to be where there is bright indirect light, not full sun. Water regularly but do not allow the plant to sit in water and feed with a slow-release fertilizer formulated for blooming container plants. Putting a greenhouse grown orchid outdoors in full sun is like us going out to the beach with no sunscreen and staying in the sun all day. Hopefully your orchid will recover if put in a shady spot outdoors or bright indirect light indoors. However, since this plant means a lot to you, the best advise is to take it to a nursery that specializes in orchids and ask them for help. We just can't tell enough from one photo. Here's some more info: http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s1415335.htm

By | 2016-03-11T20:59:52-08:00 March 11th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Papalo Papaloquelite

Papalo or Papaloquelite is an ancient Mexican herb. Not well known outside of rural Mexico, but starting to show up at some markets and farmers markets. The name comes from the word papaloti, Nahuati for butterfly.
Unusual, piquant, fresh green leaves have a complex and distinctive flavor. More powerful than even Cilantro.The flavor gets stronger the older the leaves get, but can be harvested at a much smaller stage when the flavor is milder. It is usually used fresh in soups, stews, on meats, beans and salads or added at the last moment of cooked dishes. Does not bolt like Cilantro does. The herb grows wild in some areas of the Southwest (Arizona, New Mexico, Texas) and native to Mexico. Bunches of the herbs are used as centerpieces in restaurants where diners can pick leaves to add to their dish if desired. If you are a cilantro aficionado, this is a must!
It is an annual plant that tolerates full sun or part shade. Grows any many soil types, but does prefer regular watering.

By | 2016-03-11T19:33:17-08:00 March 11th, 2016|Herbs|0 Comments
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Bud Blast

This is very interesting. If you hadn't said that the flowers never opened, we would have thought this looked totally normal. Christmas cactus flowers last only for a day or two and very quickly pass from bud to wilted. Your cactus looks like many at this time of year, with some flowers fully open, some in buds, and some on their way out. If, however, your flowers are shrivelling before they full open, the reason is probably bud blast, which occurs when flower buds get too cold or too dry or too wet. Usually it's temperature related. A Christmas cactus can take temps down to 45 F but the buds may blast if temps get below 55. Check to see if your plant is in a draft or near a door that gets opened frequently. We notice your cactus is sitting inside another pot. Check to make sure there's no water collecting at the bottom of the outside pot. Sitting in water could also lead to bud blast.

By | 2016-03-11T15:53:54-08:00 March 11th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Peach Pit Split

Thank you for your prompt response. It is much appreciated.
Peach Split Pit When cut open, fruit with split pits (as seen on the bottom) may be rotted, have insects or moldy growth inside.
Cause A physiological problem. The exact causes of pit breakage are unknown. Low temperatures and/or freeze damage during flowering and early fruit development may be factors. Fruit of most early cultivars enters the final swell of growth before the pit is completely hardened. As the fruit enlarges rapidly, stress exerted by the expanding flesh causes (or enhances) much of the pit fracturing.
Symptoms The term "split pit" normally refers to the opening of the pit at the stem end of the fruit. This split becomes evident in the third stage of fruit growth, usually referred to as the final swell. Fruit generally develops rot problems much more quickly than sound fruit, and the risk is higher that disease will spread more rapidly from split-pit fruit to other fruit.
Cultural control: Do not overthin, Do not apply excessive nitrogen .

By | 2016-03-11T15:02:35-08:00 March 11th, 2016|Fruit Plants & Trees|0 Comments
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Ginseng Ficus Bonsai

The photo is a bit dark and the tag is hiding much of the base of the plant, but its form and foliage resembles the Ficus genus, possibly F. microcarpa also known as F. retusa. Ficus are known for their dramatic roots that survive above ground resembling bulbous structures. It makes an ideal houseplant/bonsai provided there is bright indirect light, regular water, and a slow release or organic fertilizer formulated for container plants. Make sure the plant does not sit in water because this may lead to root rot. Feed with a water soluble organic or slow-release fertilizer formulated for container plants at 1/2 the recommended dilution rate during its growth cycle. Again, make sure the container has adequate drainage and allow to drain out completely, but do not allow it to sit in water. Also be aware that most Ficus do not like their locations changed and will show their displeasure by dropping its leaves. Once you find a good site with bright, indirect light and it is thriving, try to keep it there.

By | 2016-03-11T08:39:40-08:00 March 11th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Whitefly

There appears to be whitefly. If you flick a leaf, do they fly away, then settle back down? If so, these are whitefly. Whitefly live on plants throughout their three life-stages. During the first stage, whitefly lay eggs which appear on the underside of leaves as white patches arranged in regular curves. Each female can produce 100-200 eggs at a time. After the eggs hatch, they become larvae that suck out the nutrients of the leaves and stems. Their excreta, known as honeydew, causes black sooty mold. Confirm with a local garden center and recommended control. If it is, there are organic controls such as those that are formulated with Spinosad, but spray in the late afternoon or early evening after the bees have returned to their hives. Once the spray is dry it is safe for beneficials. There are also chemical formulations such as Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control.

By | 2017-09-11T15:49:20-07:00 March 11th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Blighted Leaves

Various leaf spot fungi cause yellow, brown or black dead blotches on the leaves that frequently run together. Heavily infected leaves turn yellow or brown and fall prematurely. Cool, moist weather favors these diseases, especially when new leaves are developing. Shake out all fallen and diseased leaves from the center of the viburnum shrubs and destroy them. Remove all dead branches in the center of specimen plants or hedges to allow better aeration. Mulching helps prevent the disease from splashing up from the ground and infecting plants. Spray at weekly to 10-day intervals with sulfur or Bordeaux mixture or other copper fungicide, particularly in rainy weather.
(Note: Sulfur-based fungicides may harm some viburnum varieties. Test the sensitivity of your particular Viburnum by treating one branch and watching it for 3 days to see if any discoloration occurs. If the branch and leaves seem to be unaffected after that time, you should be able to use sulfur on the plant.)

By | 2016-03-11T05:44:34-08:00 March 11th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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