Leaf Scorch

/Leaf Scorch/

Leaf Scorch

When a problem shows up fairly symmetrically on both sides of a leaf/plant, it's often a sign of a cultural problem. Cultural problems include drought, fertilizer burn, herbicide damage and nutrient deficiencies to name just a few. What has gone on around this plant? Fertilizer or weedkiller put on a lawn or beds around the tree? Long period without rain? Extreme heat or fire? Window or other power washing in the area? Anything dumped on the ground such as hot water from catering equipment? Do you have other plants of the same type and how do they look? Do other shrubs or trees also show signs of leaf scorch? How did the plant look a month ago? If you send us another photo please answer those questions and we will give it another shot. Thank you.

By | 2016-03-20T02:09:41-07:00 March 20th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Foliage Sunburn

This looks like sunburn - which happens when you move an indoor plant into more direct sunlight. When the leaves aren't used to direct sun, and suddenly they are exposed to that strong light, they burn and the leaves turn white or brown. Usually plants grow out of this once they adapt but those leaves never heal after the burn and can decline from then on.

Occasionally a plant might look sunburned when the leaves have been hit with something such as hot water, a chemical, housecleaning solutions etc. If this plant hasn't been recently put out into the sun and you doubt that sunburn is the cause, think of what else might have hit the foliage.

Additionally, sometimes sunburn happens when windows or glass doors are suddenly at a new angle and the light reflects off of them onto a plant.

By | 2016-03-19T23:38:47-07:00 March 19th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Dog Vomit Fungus

Fuligo septica is a species of slime mold. It is commonly known as the dog vomit slime mold or scrambled egg slime because of its peculiar yellowish, bile-colored appearance. A common species with a worldwide distribution, it is often found on bark mulch or in lawns in urban areas after heavy rain or excessive watering. Their spores are spread by wind. To remove the mold, be sure to dig it while it still looks like vomit. Once it powders and spreads, you can get a giant mold problem in the garden. Dig out the mold entirely and throw it out. Do not burn it. Do not compost it. Then wash all the tools and gloves you used with a weak bleach mixture as it can recontaminate your yard later. Be sure to cut back on the watering of the lawn for a while. Best of luck!

By | 2016-03-19T23:24:15-07:00 March 19th, 2016|Plant Diseases|11 Comments
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Cyclamen

Your plant belongs to the Cyclamen genus of which there are many species and hybrids. A native of Europe, the Mediterranean region and Asia, these plants are prized for their flowers and attractive clumps of green or variegated foliage. Depending on the cultivar, the flowers look like shooting stars or butterflies and come in hues of pink, red, magenta, white or bi-colors. In your area does best in partial shade or filtered light. Water when the top of the soil feels dry. Continue to care for Cyclamen until the foliage yellows and dies back. From tubers, it will go dormant in the summer, but will return in the cooler seasons. These can be tricky to re-bloom: let the bulbs rest in their pots or soil for a month and then begin watering again.

By | 2016-03-19T21:38:26-07:00 March 19th, 2016|Perennials|0 Comments
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Small Leaf Spiderwort

Winter hardy to USDA Zones 9-12. It is easily grown as a houseplant. It is noted for its ease of culture and tolerance for wide range of growing conditions. Use a peaty, soil-based potting mix. Best in filtered sun. Will grow in direct sun with some afternoon protection. Also grows in shade. Plants like a consistently moist but well-drained soil during the growing season, with reduced watering from fall to late winter. Pinch stems as needed to encourage dense foliage growth. Easily propagated by stem cuttings. Stem cuttings may also be used to create new potted plants. Plants may be pruned hard in very early spring if needed. In areas where temperatures drop below 20 Fahrenheit, those grown as houseplants can be taken outside in summer.

By | 2016-03-19T21:23:00-07:00 March 19th, 2016|House Plants|0 Comments
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Camellia Leaf Browning

Hard to tell. Could be salts in the soil or poor drainage. Are there drainage holes in the this pot? If so, leach the soil by watering heavy and allowing the water to drain out completely. If it is in a saucer, do not allow plant to sit in a water-filled container. Here's some info from UC that may help: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/PLANTS/camellia.html
A local nursery may also be able to help. Also feed your Camellia with an acid fertilizer formulated for Camellias during it's growth period which is now and feed one more time toward the end of summer or beginning of autumn before it forms flower buds. Once the flower buds form the plant is dormant and should not be fed until after the flowers are spent. We hope you get blooms in the winter or early spring!

By | 2016-03-19T18:51:42-07:00 March 19th, 2016|Shrubs|0 Comments
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Leaf Miner

This damage appears to be caused by a leaf miner. A small fly or moth lays its eggs beneath the surface of the leaf and when the eggs hatch, the larvae tunnel thru the leaf tissue, consuming the nutrients in the foliage. Once the damage has been done, nothing will reverse it. Chemical pesticides are not effective against this pest because most products won't penetrate thru the leaf surface althought products containg Spinosad have often worked. s Once the damage has been done to the leaf, it is not reversible. Usually the damage done by these insects is not going to kill the plant unless the infestation is extensive. Suggest you confirm the problem with your horticulturist at a local garden center and if it is leaf miner damage,

By | 2016-03-19T18:19:00-07:00 March 19th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Soft Scales

The soft scales that do show up on cypress, on occasion, typically move up and down the twigs and branches and feed on the vital fluids that they find. Most times natural predators and even environmental conditions will keep them in check so the plant stays healthy. The pest experts feel that keeping the tree thriving and healthy will keep them from doing much damage. But if they begin to injure the tree there are insecticides that will kill the more immature scales but the problem then becomes the adults who linger and are harder to kill. Most experts recommend chemical controls that can be applied in the spring. For those guidelines we would recommend you contact your local cooperative extension agent who can help you with the right product and the right timing.

By | 2016-03-19T14:59:38-07:00 March 19th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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Botrytis On Orchid

This looks like Botrytis, or gray mold; if not exactly that, it is a fungus of some type, likely caused by high humidity and little to no air circulation in the box - a perfect environment for fungal growth. The best thing you can do is let the fungus dry out as much as possible, provide good air circulation, make sure the orchid is potted in a very well drained media (bark is very good for this, and while you're transplanting, you can remove infected tissues as much as possible), and provide appropriate light exposure for the plant. The fungal spores may re-generate if conditions are right for it, but if you care for the orchids properly it shouldn't be an on-going problem. Here's a link about the fungs:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r280100511.html

By | 2016-03-19T12:33:03-07:00 March 19th, 2016|Plant Diseases|0 Comments
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Chewing Insect

The problem with chewing insects such as grasshoppers, beetles, caterpillars (too numerous to name) etc. is they move about and often are difficult to spot among the green foliage. Chewing insects can be large enough to see with the naked eye, but they can be green, brown, black, etc. so look closely and pluck off any you see on this plant or its neighbors as long as the infestation is not too extensive. If it is extensive, you can spray with an organic control for chewing insects recommended by your local garden center, such as Bt or Spinosad. Bt is a contact only control and Spinosad has a 7-10 day residual but spray Spinosad in the early evening after the bees have returned to their hives. Once dry it is safe for beneficials. However, the most benign control is pick and squish.

By | 2016-03-19T11:17:57-07:00 March 19th, 2016|Plant Pests|0 Comments
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